By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=James_Corman]James Corman
Sugar gliders as pets are very endearing. They are extremely sociable animals that love playing with each other and their owners. It is most crucial to establish a strong bond with your glider regardless of its age when you acquired it.
Although, it is much more challenging to bond with an adult glider rather than a baby since it would take more patience. There are similarities in all gliders as pets, but despite this fact, there are still some details which would make each one unique.
First things first, to begin the bonding experience with your joey, there must be a pouch which has to have enough room for the animal, to sleep in comfortably and small enough for you to carry close to you body. Some of these gliders would even use their pouches for longer than a year. Gliders love sleeping in these pouches seen it makes them feel safe.
Sugar gliders as pets, can be a lot of fun, especially when you carry them outside together with their pouch, and just have a terrific time. It is easy to gain the animals trust by feeding them treats which makes them feel that you are a friend. Eventually, they would get accustomed to these treatments and look forward to normal routines that you would do together.
They are as cuddly as they look since at any age of their life; these exotic animals require constant contact and attention especially from their owners. This is more important for owners that only have one glider since paired ones can give each other some of the attention that each one requires.
Also, sugar gliders as pets require a few hours in the evening for playing. For playtime, there is a need to let your pet out of its cage, so it can roam about the room, but make sure that before you let it out of its cage that the room is entirely sealed. This lets the animal explore its surrounding more and give in to its curiosity.
Gliders are quite playful; they would run around the room and go up shelves or frames for a time, but eventually, as being the loyal creatures that they are, they would return to you afterwards.
Even with all these wonderful and exciting facts about sugar gliders as pets, it is unfortunate that these animals cannot be trained to dispose of their waste in a single area. In simple terms, the glider cannot be potty-trained. They will defecate or urinate at their disposal. So as the owner, it is your responsibility, to keep their surroundings clean, urine and feces free. Also, remember to keep all things that you do not want your glider to urinate or defecate on tucked away in a safe area. They might even go when you are carrying them but do not let this disappoint you and have some patience. It is all part of taking care of your new pet.
Visit http://www.sugargliderpetcenter.com/ for more information on sugar gliders.
The Sugar Glider Pet Center also has information about [http://www.sugargliderpetcenter.com/sugar-glider-breeding]sugar glider breeding
as well as information on the care and cage requirements, photos of gliders, joeys, and gliders in flight.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Bonding-With-Your-New-Pet&id=6532053] Bonding With Your New Pet
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Thursday, January 26, 2012
How To Take Care of a Baby Squirrel
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=William_Sells]William Sells
You found a baby squirrel, and now need information on how to care for it. You're about to experience one of the most rewarding activities on earth!
The ideal situation would be to return the baby to it's mother. If you place it in a small box with a warm rice bag, and tack it to the tree where you found it, it's possible that mom will come and take it back to an alternate nest. If the mother doesn't come within an hour, the baby becomes your charge.
Relax, caring for baby squirrels is easy! If you don't have the time or will to do it, every State has licensed wild animal rehabilitators who can do the job. If you do have the time and can remember the acronym, "WHAM," you can easily and confidently care for a baby squirrel!
The letter W, stands for warm. Baby squirrels need to be kept warm. You never should attempt to feed a baby until it is completely warmed. A baby squirrel should always feel warm the the touch when you pick it up. When the baby is less than 5 weeks old, (before it's eyes open,) it can easily be kept in a cardboard box. I like to use rice bags to keep my baby squirrels warm. I heat the bag in the microwave until it is warm to the touch, place it in the box, punch it down in the center to make a nest, place pieces of blanket or fleece material over the bag, put the baby squirrel in and cover it with more soft cloth. This method keeps the baby warm between feedings.
Some people like to use a heating pad on the low setting under the box. If it's placed under half of the box, the baby squirrel will climb on and off the heated side until it finds a comfortable sleeping temperature. Either way, this accomplishes the task of keeping the baby squirrel warm.
The letter H, stands for hydrate. Many rehabbers advocate starting off with plain Pedalyte, (an electrolyte fluid replacement solution.) I have never advocated this practice because it is just plain silly. A mother squirrel doesn't run off to the store to buy Pedalyte when her baby has been laying out in the elements for a couple of hours. She warms her baby squirrel, then lets it nurse. I've always started with formula, and have never lost a baby squirrel due to a dietary problem. If you go to my website, you can see pictures of squirrels that were within hours of death from malnutrition and dehydration, yet they did just fine on formula only.
The letter A, stands for accommodate. Baby squirrels do three things. They eat, they potty, and they sleep. Accommodation means that you facilitate these three activities until they mature to the point where their eyes are open, and they start exploring their habitat. A baby squirrel must be stimulated to urinate and move it's bowels. This can be accomplished by using a cotton ball dipped in warm water, which is used to stimulate the genitals of the baby squirrel until it passes urine and moves it's bowels. This simulates what a mother squirrel does after her babies nurse. She will lick them to accomplish the same results.
Feeding involves formula. This is where many people get really confused and scared, because there are a whole lot of people in the rehab' community that militantly advocate feeding only a certain type of puppy formula to baby squirrels, with the dire warning that your baby squirrel will die if cows milk ever crosses it's lips. As I said before, I've never lost a squirrel to a dietary problem and have tons of visual proof and testimonial letters to prove that these warnings are not true. I teach people all the time how to make a superior formula from whole milk, heavy whipping cream, Vitamin E and raw Coconut Oil. It is true that milk right out of the bottle will give a baby squirrel diarrhea, which can lead to an electrolyte imbalance, heart arrhythmia and ultimately death from heart failure. But, one simple step in the preparation eliminates this danger, and makes this formula one of the best foods in the world for baby squirrels!
And finally the letter M, stands for Maintain. To maintain simply means to keep doing the things that are right for your baby squirrel to grow and mature. After 5 week, when the baby squirrel opens it's eyes, it will need a new habitat, meaning a cage, and gradual changes in it's diet. At six weeks you will start to feel teeth emerging, and by eight weeks it will be ready to start chewing on things. This is the time to provide Oak or Maple twigs for your baby squirrel to start teething on. It's also the time to start introducing some solid foods. Baby squirrels have to learn to swallow solids. I like to introduce small pieces of raw sweet potato. Baby squirrels will chew an spit out solid foods at first, the orange colored sweet potato makes it easy to see the chewed up pieces in the bottom of the cage. When I no longer see shredded sweet potato, I know that they have learned to swallow, and am able to advance their diet. I let them continue to take formula for as long as they want to nurse, because squirrels need lots of calcium!
The need for calcium, especially in captivity, is one of the most critical aspects of raising a squirrel. In fact, it is the most important factor in success or failure when it comes to raising a baby squirrel! If a baby squirrel does not have an adequate source of calcium after it stops nursing, it will develop a condition called Metabolic Bone Disease, or Rickets. I don't know how many times I've gotten e-mails from panicked people telling me their 5 or 6 month old squirrel was fine one day and the next day lost the use of it's rear legs. It happens that fast, and is completely preventable!
There are many more details about how to take care of a baby squirrel, that are beyond the scope of this article. My desire is to help you take the right first steps in this rewarding endeavor, and to let you know that I am always available to help and answer any and all questions about the care of a baby squirrel! On my website I offer free recipes, advice and e-books at no charge to help you successfully raise a healthy and happy squirrel! http://www.squirrelnutrition.com/
William Sells is a Registered Emergency Room Nurse turned Squirrel Rehabilitator. After nearly killing his first squirrel by following bogus information he obtained on the Internet, he vowed to learn all he could about the proper way to care for squirrels, and to share that information with all who were in need. His website, http://squirrelnutrition.com/ is loaded with free information about how to care for and feed squirrels through various stages of their lives. Every first time visitor is offered our free mini e-book about how to care for a baby squirrel.
SquirrelNutrition.com has free recipes for Calcium rich supplements that are ideal for captive squirrels, plus recipes for supplemental food to keep your outside squirrels in peak health!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Take-Care-of-a-Baby-Squirrel&id=6549135] How To Take Care of a Baby Squirrel
You found a baby squirrel, and now need information on how to care for it. You're about to experience one of the most rewarding activities on earth!
The ideal situation would be to return the baby to it's mother. If you place it in a small box with a warm rice bag, and tack it to the tree where you found it, it's possible that mom will come and take it back to an alternate nest. If the mother doesn't come within an hour, the baby becomes your charge.
Relax, caring for baby squirrels is easy! If you don't have the time or will to do it, every State has licensed wild animal rehabilitators who can do the job. If you do have the time and can remember the acronym, "WHAM," you can easily and confidently care for a baby squirrel!
The letter W, stands for warm. Baby squirrels need to be kept warm. You never should attempt to feed a baby until it is completely warmed. A baby squirrel should always feel warm the the touch when you pick it up. When the baby is less than 5 weeks old, (before it's eyes open,) it can easily be kept in a cardboard box. I like to use rice bags to keep my baby squirrels warm. I heat the bag in the microwave until it is warm to the touch, place it in the box, punch it down in the center to make a nest, place pieces of blanket or fleece material over the bag, put the baby squirrel in and cover it with more soft cloth. This method keeps the baby warm between feedings.
Some people like to use a heating pad on the low setting under the box. If it's placed under half of the box, the baby squirrel will climb on and off the heated side until it finds a comfortable sleeping temperature. Either way, this accomplishes the task of keeping the baby squirrel warm.
The letter H, stands for hydrate. Many rehabbers advocate starting off with plain Pedalyte, (an electrolyte fluid replacement solution.) I have never advocated this practice because it is just plain silly. A mother squirrel doesn't run off to the store to buy Pedalyte when her baby has been laying out in the elements for a couple of hours. She warms her baby squirrel, then lets it nurse. I've always started with formula, and have never lost a baby squirrel due to a dietary problem. If you go to my website, you can see pictures of squirrels that were within hours of death from malnutrition and dehydration, yet they did just fine on formula only.
The letter A, stands for accommodate. Baby squirrels do three things. They eat, they potty, and they sleep. Accommodation means that you facilitate these three activities until they mature to the point where their eyes are open, and they start exploring their habitat. A baby squirrel must be stimulated to urinate and move it's bowels. This can be accomplished by using a cotton ball dipped in warm water, which is used to stimulate the genitals of the baby squirrel until it passes urine and moves it's bowels. This simulates what a mother squirrel does after her babies nurse. She will lick them to accomplish the same results.
Feeding involves formula. This is where many people get really confused and scared, because there are a whole lot of people in the rehab' community that militantly advocate feeding only a certain type of puppy formula to baby squirrels, with the dire warning that your baby squirrel will die if cows milk ever crosses it's lips. As I said before, I've never lost a squirrel to a dietary problem and have tons of visual proof and testimonial letters to prove that these warnings are not true. I teach people all the time how to make a superior formula from whole milk, heavy whipping cream, Vitamin E and raw Coconut Oil. It is true that milk right out of the bottle will give a baby squirrel diarrhea, which can lead to an electrolyte imbalance, heart arrhythmia and ultimately death from heart failure. But, one simple step in the preparation eliminates this danger, and makes this formula one of the best foods in the world for baby squirrels!
And finally the letter M, stands for Maintain. To maintain simply means to keep doing the things that are right for your baby squirrel to grow and mature. After 5 week, when the baby squirrel opens it's eyes, it will need a new habitat, meaning a cage, and gradual changes in it's diet. At six weeks you will start to feel teeth emerging, and by eight weeks it will be ready to start chewing on things. This is the time to provide Oak or Maple twigs for your baby squirrel to start teething on. It's also the time to start introducing some solid foods. Baby squirrels have to learn to swallow solids. I like to introduce small pieces of raw sweet potato. Baby squirrels will chew an spit out solid foods at first, the orange colored sweet potato makes it easy to see the chewed up pieces in the bottom of the cage. When I no longer see shredded sweet potato, I know that they have learned to swallow, and am able to advance their diet. I let them continue to take formula for as long as they want to nurse, because squirrels need lots of calcium!
The need for calcium, especially in captivity, is one of the most critical aspects of raising a squirrel. In fact, it is the most important factor in success or failure when it comes to raising a baby squirrel! If a baby squirrel does not have an adequate source of calcium after it stops nursing, it will develop a condition called Metabolic Bone Disease, or Rickets. I don't know how many times I've gotten e-mails from panicked people telling me their 5 or 6 month old squirrel was fine one day and the next day lost the use of it's rear legs. It happens that fast, and is completely preventable!
There are many more details about how to take care of a baby squirrel, that are beyond the scope of this article. My desire is to help you take the right first steps in this rewarding endeavor, and to let you know that I am always available to help and answer any and all questions about the care of a baby squirrel! On my website I offer free recipes, advice and e-books at no charge to help you successfully raise a healthy and happy squirrel! http://www.squirrelnutrition.com/
William Sells is a Registered Emergency Room Nurse turned Squirrel Rehabilitator. After nearly killing his first squirrel by following bogus information he obtained on the Internet, he vowed to learn all he could about the proper way to care for squirrels, and to share that information with all who were in need. His website, http://squirrelnutrition.com/ is loaded with free information about how to care for and feed squirrels through various stages of their lives. Every first time visitor is offered our free mini e-book about how to care for a baby squirrel.
SquirrelNutrition.com has free recipes for Calcium rich supplements that are ideal for captive squirrels, plus recipes for supplemental food to keep your outside squirrels in peak health!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Take-Care-of-a-Baby-Squirrel&id=6549135] How To Take Care of a Baby Squirrel
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Bearded Dragon Diet
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Amber_Freeman]Amber Freeman
Bearded dragons are both unusual and friendly, making for a great pet for all ages. Making sure a bearded dragon is healthy and stays that way can be a big responsibility. Because they are omnivores, they need a balance of both vegetation and protein rich meats in order to stay healthy. Maintaining a healthy dragon diet is not difficult with a few simple reminders.
A baby bearded dragon diet should consist of mostly protein, but this is the only time you will want to give this type of diet. A healthy adult diet should consist of between 80%-85% fruits and vegetables with the remaining 15%-20% being protein. A bearded dragon gets nearly all of its protein from insects such as crickets and worms. While there are many varieties of fruits and vegetables that can be given to them, there are some that are favored and others to stay away from.
Protein
A bearded dragon diet should include protein, but only as a supplement to a diet consisting of mostly fruits and vegetables. The best protein sources are crickets, meal worms, silkworms, and roaches. These are available at many specialty pet food stores. Never feed a them insects caught in the wild, as germs and bacteria they are carrying can make a beardie very ill. Purchasing them from a pet food store or breeding them is the way to go.
Fruits and Vegetables
Fruits and vegetables are the main source of both food and water. Any fruits and vegetables not consumed by the end of the day should always be removed from the habitat to prevent accidental ingestion of rotting material. The best fruit and vegetable options are romaine lettuce, kale, dandelion greens, apricots, mangoes, and berries. Again, it is important to make sure that nothing being fed to your pet has been treated with pesticides. Wash everything thoroughly, and spritz with water to ensure your pet is well hydrated.
What to Avoid
There are some fruits and vegetables that are not a healthy part of a bearded dragons diet. The water content of regular lettuce is very high and it has little nutritional value. This can cause diarrhea and malnutrition in your bearded dragon. Also, avocado is known to be poisonous to birds and other small animals so this is best avoided. Rhubarb is a known poison for them as well. All acidic fruits such as lemons, oranges, and tomatoes should be avoided as well.
With a little knowledge and a little bit of patience, you will soon learn what your pet's favorite foods are and how to properly feed them. You will be well on your way to raising a happy, healthy pet that will live its life to the fullest!
Amber Freeman is a writer who specializes in choosing a pet and pet care. you can check out er latest website at [http://www.babybeardeddragon.org]Baby Bearded Dragon, where she provides care and handling advice including diet, [http://babybeardeddragon.org/bearded-dragons-facts]bearded dragon facts, tips, and much more!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Bearded-Dragon-Diet&id=6549540] Bearded Dragon Diet
Bearded dragons are both unusual and friendly, making for a great pet for all ages. Making sure a bearded dragon is healthy and stays that way can be a big responsibility. Because they are omnivores, they need a balance of both vegetation and protein rich meats in order to stay healthy. Maintaining a healthy dragon diet is not difficult with a few simple reminders.
A baby bearded dragon diet should consist of mostly protein, but this is the only time you will want to give this type of diet. A healthy adult diet should consist of between 80%-85% fruits and vegetables with the remaining 15%-20% being protein. A bearded dragon gets nearly all of its protein from insects such as crickets and worms. While there are many varieties of fruits and vegetables that can be given to them, there are some that are favored and others to stay away from.
Protein
A bearded dragon diet should include protein, but only as a supplement to a diet consisting of mostly fruits and vegetables. The best protein sources are crickets, meal worms, silkworms, and roaches. These are available at many specialty pet food stores. Never feed a them insects caught in the wild, as germs and bacteria they are carrying can make a beardie very ill. Purchasing them from a pet food store or breeding them is the way to go.
Fruits and Vegetables
Fruits and vegetables are the main source of both food and water. Any fruits and vegetables not consumed by the end of the day should always be removed from the habitat to prevent accidental ingestion of rotting material. The best fruit and vegetable options are romaine lettuce, kale, dandelion greens, apricots, mangoes, and berries. Again, it is important to make sure that nothing being fed to your pet has been treated with pesticides. Wash everything thoroughly, and spritz with water to ensure your pet is well hydrated.
What to Avoid
There are some fruits and vegetables that are not a healthy part of a bearded dragons diet. The water content of regular lettuce is very high and it has little nutritional value. This can cause diarrhea and malnutrition in your bearded dragon. Also, avocado is known to be poisonous to birds and other small animals so this is best avoided. Rhubarb is a known poison for them as well. All acidic fruits such as lemons, oranges, and tomatoes should be avoided as well.
With a little knowledge and a little bit of patience, you will soon learn what your pet's favorite foods are and how to properly feed them. You will be well on your way to raising a happy, healthy pet that will live its life to the fullest!
Amber Freeman is a writer who specializes in choosing a pet and pet care. you can check out er latest website at [http://www.babybeardeddragon.org]Baby Bearded Dragon, where she provides care and handling advice including diet, [http://babybeardeddragon.org/bearded-dragons-facts]bearded dragon facts, tips, and much more!
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Bearded-Dragon-Diet&id=6549540] Bearded Dragon Diet
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Caring for Your Sick Tarantula
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Hugo_Moss]Hugo Moss
I have not come across a vet that is willing to work with a sick tarantula and therefore, we as owners must be willing to try for ourselves. The information is based only on experiences with tarantulas.
Traumatized Tarantula:
If your tarantula falls and it is severe enough to cause bleeding from the pedicel or abdomen then the survival chance is poor. However, the most important thing to do for any spider that suffers loss of body fluid is to get it a drink of water. Spiders have a partially hydraulic muscle system and extend their legs using blood pressure, not muscles. Therefore if they lose blood they need to drink to replace the blood fluid volume lost.
Puncture wounds:
If a tarantula suffers a puncture wound it can be plugged with an adhesion patch. You will have to consider how to hold the spider so you can patch the wound. Another solution is to anaesthetize the spider by chilling it in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. For a bandage you can use a small piece of plastic with petroleum jelly on it slapped over the leak. If the spider can reach the bandage, it will pull it off, so you may need to try a blob of petroleum jelly alone. An alternative is to use a fast-drying adhesive like superglue. The wounded area will be completely healed at the next moult, although you may notice a slight discolouration.
Leg Loss:
If a tarantula loses a leg it is in far better shape than you might imagine as most grow another one. Spiders have the ability to shed legs the way some lizards shed tails. Better to lose a leg than your life, especially if you have eight to begin with! All spiders have a joint in their legs near the base which breaks away when the leg is grabbed. The open stump is closed off by muscular contraction at the joint and blood loss is immediately stopped. If a leg is injured in any way the tarantula may decide that it is more trouble than it is worth and pull it off itself. Tarantulas will often eat the leg to make up for the nutrients they invested in growing it in the first place. The leg will not totally be replaced with the next moult, it will take several sheds for the new leg to be the same length as the other legs.
Having a bad Moult:
Shedding is a big event for a tarantula and a lot of things can go wrong, the best thing you can do is offer water. All tarantulas especially young ones can encounter problems to shed when the conditions are too dry. Over water to tarantulas that get stuck in the old skin. It can be as minor as having a patch of old cuticle stick to the abdomen, In this case you can soften the dry skin with water and gently pull the old skin off. Dont jerk, just pull gently. A crises is when the tarantula fail to free old legs. If the legs are most of the way out and stuck then you might be able to soften the old skin with water and gently pull the old skin off. If the legs are stuck most of the way in forced autotomy may be your best choice. If only one or two legs are stuck you can induce autotomy of the stuck legs by pinching them through the old cuticle using a tweezers. If most legs are stuck and the new cuticle has already hardened then your best bet in this case is to euthanize the spider. You can do this by placing the spider in the freezer.
Cuticular Conditions:
Fungal infections:
A grey patch on the abdomen is probably a fungal infection, it most often occur in moist cages. The first thing you need to do is to let the cage dry out. This will slow or stop the growth of the fungus. You can try treating the fungus with a topical treatment but this will only be experimental. When the spider moults the fungus will be she with the old cuticle.
Lumps:
Adult females can develop lumps on the abdomen for no apparent reason. They can moult out of it. http://reptile-parrots.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?86-Tarantulas
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Caring-for-Your-Sick-Tarantula&id=6557752] Caring for Your Sick Tarantula
I have not come across a vet that is willing to work with a sick tarantula and therefore, we as owners must be willing to try for ourselves. The information is based only on experiences with tarantulas.
Traumatized Tarantula:
If your tarantula falls and it is severe enough to cause bleeding from the pedicel or abdomen then the survival chance is poor. However, the most important thing to do for any spider that suffers loss of body fluid is to get it a drink of water. Spiders have a partially hydraulic muscle system and extend their legs using blood pressure, not muscles. Therefore if they lose blood they need to drink to replace the blood fluid volume lost.
Puncture wounds:
If a tarantula suffers a puncture wound it can be plugged with an adhesion patch. You will have to consider how to hold the spider so you can patch the wound. Another solution is to anaesthetize the spider by chilling it in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. For a bandage you can use a small piece of plastic with petroleum jelly on it slapped over the leak. If the spider can reach the bandage, it will pull it off, so you may need to try a blob of petroleum jelly alone. An alternative is to use a fast-drying adhesive like superglue. The wounded area will be completely healed at the next moult, although you may notice a slight discolouration.
Leg Loss:
If a tarantula loses a leg it is in far better shape than you might imagine as most grow another one. Spiders have the ability to shed legs the way some lizards shed tails. Better to lose a leg than your life, especially if you have eight to begin with! All spiders have a joint in their legs near the base which breaks away when the leg is grabbed. The open stump is closed off by muscular contraction at the joint and blood loss is immediately stopped. If a leg is injured in any way the tarantula may decide that it is more trouble than it is worth and pull it off itself. Tarantulas will often eat the leg to make up for the nutrients they invested in growing it in the first place. The leg will not totally be replaced with the next moult, it will take several sheds for the new leg to be the same length as the other legs.
Having a bad Moult:
Shedding is a big event for a tarantula and a lot of things can go wrong, the best thing you can do is offer water. All tarantulas especially young ones can encounter problems to shed when the conditions are too dry. Over water to tarantulas that get stuck in the old skin. It can be as minor as having a patch of old cuticle stick to the abdomen, In this case you can soften the dry skin with water and gently pull the old skin off. Dont jerk, just pull gently. A crises is when the tarantula fail to free old legs. If the legs are most of the way out and stuck then you might be able to soften the old skin with water and gently pull the old skin off. If the legs are stuck most of the way in forced autotomy may be your best choice. If only one or two legs are stuck you can induce autotomy of the stuck legs by pinching them through the old cuticle using a tweezers. If most legs are stuck and the new cuticle has already hardened then your best bet in this case is to euthanize the spider. You can do this by placing the spider in the freezer.
Cuticular Conditions:
Fungal infections:
A grey patch on the abdomen is probably a fungal infection, it most often occur in moist cages. The first thing you need to do is to let the cage dry out. This will slow or stop the growth of the fungus. You can try treating the fungus with a topical treatment but this will only be experimental. When the spider moults the fungus will be she with the old cuticle.
Lumps:
Adult females can develop lumps on the abdomen for no apparent reason. They can moult out of it. http://reptile-parrots.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?86-Tarantulas
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Caring-for-Your-Sick-Tarantula&id=6557752] Caring for Your Sick Tarantula
Friday, January 20, 2012
Baby Rabbit Care Tips - How to Take Care of Your Newborn Rabbit
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Amy_Havelock]Amy Havelock
So, you just bought your first baby rabbit and you want to know how to take care of it. You are in for a real treat with this pet. Bunnies can be so much fun, and they are very trainable! But, they have very sensitive tummies, so, it's important that you are careful how you feed them.
Baby bunnies are so adorable! Who can resist those little fuzzy faces? I know I can't! That is why I have learned quite a bit about raising baby bunnies. For the most part, you should let the mother rabbit take care of the babies for at least 2 months. They can be weaned a little sooner, as soon as 6 weeks. However, for a good solid healthy bunny, 2 months is a good time frame. If you are trying to rescue a baby bunny that has been taken from the mother, that is an entirely different article. If you have found a baby bunny, leave it where you have found it and check on it from time to time. Chances are, the mother will come and get it. She may have been in the process of moving her nest.
So, at two months old, you should feed them what ever rabbit food they were already eating. It's usually some sort of pellets. Baby bunnies have sensitive tummies, so, it is important not to give them any carrots or fresh green stuff until they are around 6 months old. And at that point, feed it cautiously, and slowly. Where ever your rabbit was for sale at, find out what sort of pellets they were feeding your sweet little critter. Make sure that if you can't get that brand, that you get about a gallon bag full from them. What ever brand you buy, you will give them half of the new stuff, and half of the old stuff until you run out of the old stuff. This should allow their tummies to get adjusted.
Another trick to get them used to the new water they are drinking is to add about a half a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar to about a half a gallon of water. This will help them to get adjusted to the new water as well. Use sparingly, and enjoy your new baby bunny!!
Feel free to come and join my facebook page at [http://www.facebook.com/RabbitsForSale]Rabbits For Sale. You can post your photos of your favorite pet [http://www.facebook.com/RabbitsForSale]rabbits.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Baby-Rabbit-Care-Tips---How-to-Take-Care-of-Your-Newborn-Rabbit&id=6569572] Baby Rabbit Care Tips - How to Take Care of Your Newborn Rabbit
So, you just bought your first baby rabbit and you want to know how to take care of it. You are in for a real treat with this pet. Bunnies can be so much fun, and they are very trainable! But, they have very sensitive tummies, so, it's important that you are careful how you feed them.
Baby bunnies are so adorable! Who can resist those little fuzzy faces? I know I can't! That is why I have learned quite a bit about raising baby bunnies. For the most part, you should let the mother rabbit take care of the babies for at least 2 months. They can be weaned a little sooner, as soon as 6 weeks. However, for a good solid healthy bunny, 2 months is a good time frame. If you are trying to rescue a baby bunny that has been taken from the mother, that is an entirely different article. If you have found a baby bunny, leave it where you have found it and check on it from time to time. Chances are, the mother will come and get it. She may have been in the process of moving her nest.
So, at two months old, you should feed them what ever rabbit food they were already eating. It's usually some sort of pellets. Baby bunnies have sensitive tummies, so, it is important not to give them any carrots or fresh green stuff until they are around 6 months old. And at that point, feed it cautiously, and slowly. Where ever your rabbit was for sale at, find out what sort of pellets they were feeding your sweet little critter. Make sure that if you can't get that brand, that you get about a gallon bag full from them. What ever brand you buy, you will give them half of the new stuff, and half of the old stuff until you run out of the old stuff. This should allow their tummies to get adjusted.
Another trick to get them used to the new water they are drinking is to add about a half a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar to about a half a gallon of water. This will help them to get adjusted to the new water as well. Use sparingly, and enjoy your new baby bunny!!
Feel free to come and join my facebook page at [http://www.facebook.com/RabbitsForSale]Rabbits For Sale. You can post your photos of your favorite pet [http://www.facebook.com/RabbitsForSale]rabbits.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Baby-Rabbit-Care-Tips---How-to-Take-Care-of-Your-Newborn-Rabbit&id=6569572] Baby Rabbit Care Tips - How to Take Care of Your Newborn Rabbit
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Panda's Habitat: About the Panda's Habitat in the Wild and Captivity
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Connor_McBroom]Connor McBroom
Here in this article you are going to learn all about the panda's habitat. Since the panda is an endangered species there are reserves set up to help preserve and increase the population of the species. Here in this article we are going to look at both wild and captive environments.
Panda's habitat in the wild
The panda's habitat in the wild mainly consists of forest and bamboo. The wild consists of a few mountain ranges on the east of the Tibetan plateau. They used to live in the lowland grassy areas but they were cut down though deforestation and farming which has recently been banned. The panda's habitat in the wild is filled with forest, trees and bamboo which they thrive on. It is also often misty and cool in their habitat. Often during the summer, mist swirls around the conifer clad peaks and through the valleys of the qionglai mountains. This with the rain and snow helps to maintain the moist atmosphere which is essential for bamboos to flourish because without it the pandas will die.
The panda's habitat in the mountain also contains streams or lakes where they will drink after a session of eating bamboo. The pandas will make temporary dens in the bamboo forests where they will sit and eat bamboo for hours on end. Waterfalls and lakes are abundant in their habitat. Pandas often rest beside rivers and streams in their habitat to keep energy expenditure low, it also means they are closer to it to drink. Since their diet is so low in nutrition they try to keep their energy expenditure to a minimum. Pandas can also be seen climbing up trees to play, especially the younger pandas as they don't require as much feeding as an adult panda.
Panda's habitat in captivity
A panda's habitat in captivity is not the same as it is in the wild. However the reserve centers try their hardest to replicate the environment that the wild pandas live in. Reserve centers will include an abundant amount of bamboo for them to feed on. They will also include rocks and trees for the pandas to play on. Other features of a panda's habitat in captivity may include lakes, ponds, streams and other objects for the pandas to play on such as giant tyres. These centers are in enclosed areas to help keep the pandas more protected from outside threats such as poachers.
If you would like to learn more about the panda please visit my website [http://aboutpandas.bravehost.com/pandas%20habitat.html]http://aboutpandas.bravehost.com/pandas%20habitat.html
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Pandas-Habitat:-About-the-Pandas-Habitat-in-the-Wild-and-Captivity&id=6495687] Panda's Habitat: About the Panda's Habitat in the Wild and Captivity
Here in this article you are going to learn all about the panda's habitat. Since the panda is an endangered species there are reserves set up to help preserve and increase the population of the species. Here in this article we are going to look at both wild and captive environments.
Panda's habitat in the wild
The panda's habitat in the wild mainly consists of forest and bamboo. The wild consists of a few mountain ranges on the east of the Tibetan plateau. They used to live in the lowland grassy areas but they were cut down though deforestation and farming which has recently been banned. The panda's habitat in the wild is filled with forest, trees and bamboo which they thrive on. It is also often misty and cool in their habitat. Often during the summer, mist swirls around the conifer clad peaks and through the valleys of the qionglai mountains. This with the rain and snow helps to maintain the moist atmosphere which is essential for bamboos to flourish because without it the pandas will die.
The panda's habitat in the mountain also contains streams or lakes where they will drink after a session of eating bamboo. The pandas will make temporary dens in the bamboo forests where they will sit and eat bamboo for hours on end. Waterfalls and lakes are abundant in their habitat. Pandas often rest beside rivers and streams in their habitat to keep energy expenditure low, it also means they are closer to it to drink. Since their diet is so low in nutrition they try to keep their energy expenditure to a minimum. Pandas can also be seen climbing up trees to play, especially the younger pandas as they don't require as much feeding as an adult panda.
Panda's habitat in captivity
A panda's habitat in captivity is not the same as it is in the wild. However the reserve centers try their hardest to replicate the environment that the wild pandas live in. Reserve centers will include an abundant amount of bamboo for them to feed on. They will also include rocks and trees for the pandas to play on. Other features of a panda's habitat in captivity may include lakes, ponds, streams and other objects for the pandas to play on such as giant tyres. These centers are in enclosed areas to help keep the pandas more protected from outside threats such as poachers.
If you would like to learn more about the panda please visit my website [http://aboutpandas.bravehost.com/pandas%20habitat.html]http://aboutpandas.bravehost.com/pandas%20habitat.html
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Pandas-Habitat:-About-the-Pandas-Habitat-in-the-Wild-and-Captivity&id=6495687] Panda's Habitat: About the Panda's Habitat in the Wild and Captivity
Monday, January 16, 2012
Nesting Spots for Gliders
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Sugar gliders (SG) need a place to place their young if ever your pets decide to mate and reproduce. Nesting spots are also used by sugar gliders as sleeping areas. (You don't want your SG to sleep on the floor of the cage.) You can add a nesting spot to any cage by installing any of the following:
Medium-sized clay pots (the pots should have no chemical glaze)
Wooden boxes
Plastic boxes
Nesting pouches made of thick cloth
Many sugar bear owners are in agreement that semi-porous boxes or pots are ideal for nesting spots. Semi-porous materials such as clay are capable of absorbing moisture and also 'breathe', which helps regulate the temperature and humidity inside the box.
The big downside to semi-porous materials is that these materials absorb moisture both inside and on the outside.
When a suggie defecate or urinate on or around a semi-absorbent box, it will absorb some of the waste.
If you decide to use a semi-absorbent box, make sure that you periodically replace the box to prevent any infections inside the cage. Old resting boxes will also smell quite awful so it's best to replace these.
For the sake of ease and practicality, many veterinarians recommend the use of plastic boxes. Plastic boxes come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and thicknesses and are also easier to clean.
Unless your plastic resting box breaks in half, you won't have to replace it.
If a sugar glider has an 'accident' on top of the nesting box, you can just wash and dry it. If you are going to use a plastic box, make sure that you add absorbent bedding inside. You do not need to add absorbent bedding in cloth pouches.
Where should you place the cloth pouches? To prevent your glider bears from urinating and defecating on the resting boxes, install the boxes either on the side of the cage or near the top of the cage.
This way the sugar gliders will only approach the nesting box when they really need to. If you place it on the floor of the cage, your honey bear will most likely use it as a toilet.
The dimensions of the cage are as follows:
24 inches (depth)
24 inches (width)
36 inches (height)
Note that a cage with this size will only be sufficient for one or two adult gliders. If you plan to get more, you have to get additional cages or you can create a custom cage that will accommodate the additional members of the glider group.
After purchasing or making the new glider cage, choose a nice, warm spot inside your house. The spot should be away from cold breezes that may come in from nearby doors or windows.
The glider bear cage should be placed on top of a sturdy table. If the glider cage is very tall (more than forty inches in height), you don't have to place it on a table. Just make sure you can prevent larger pets from disturbing the suggies, especially during the first few weeks in their new home.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/a-cage-for-your-sugar-glider/]setting up cage for sugar gliders
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Nesting-Spots-for-Gliders&id=6563470] Nesting Spots for Gliders
Sugar gliders (SG) need a place to place their young if ever your pets decide to mate and reproduce. Nesting spots are also used by sugar gliders as sleeping areas. (You don't want your SG to sleep on the floor of the cage.) You can add a nesting spot to any cage by installing any of the following:
Medium-sized clay pots (the pots should have no chemical glaze)
Wooden boxes
Plastic boxes
Nesting pouches made of thick cloth
Many sugar bear owners are in agreement that semi-porous boxes or pots are ideal for nesting spots. Semi-porous materials such as clay are capable of absorbing moisture and also 'breathe', which helps regulate the temperature and humidity inside the box.
The big downside to semi-porous materials is that these materials absorb moisture both inside and on the outside.
When a suggie defecate or urinate on or around a semi-absorbent box, it will absorb some of the waste.
If you decide to use a semi-absorbent box, make sure that you periodically replace the box to prevent any infections inside the cage. Old resting boxes will also smell quite awful so it's best to replace these.
For the sake of ease and practicality, many veterinarians recommend the use of plastic boxes. Plastic boxes come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, and thicknesses and are also easier to clean.
Unless your plastic resting box breaks in half, you won't have to replace it.
If a sugar glider has an 'accident' on top of the nesting box, you can just wash and dry it. If you are going to use a plastic box, make sure that you add absorbent bedding inside. You do not need to add absorbent bedding in cloth pouches.
Where should you place the cloth pouches? To prevent your glider bears from urinating and defecating on the resting boxes, install the boxes either on the side of the cage or near the top of the cage.
This way the sugar gliders will only approach the nesting box when they really need to. If you place it on the floor of the cage, your honey bear will most likely use it as a toilet.
The dimensions of the cage are as follows:
24 inches (depth)
24 inches (width)
36 inches (height)
Note that a cage with this size will only be sufficient for one or two adult gliders. If you plan to get more, you have to get additional cages or you can create a custom cage that will accommodate the additional members of the glider group.
After purchasing or making the new glider cage, choose a nice, warm spot inside your house. The spot should be away from cold breezes that may come in from nearby doors or windows.
The glider bear cage should be placed on top of a sturdy table. If the glider cage is very tall (more than forty inches in height), you don't have to place it on a table. Just make sure you can prevent larger pets from disturbing the suggies, especially during the first few weeks in their new home.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/a-cage-for-your-sugar-glider/]setting up cage for sugar gliders
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Nesting-Spots-for-Gliders&id=6563470] Nesting Spots for Gliders
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