By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Kerry_J._Knoll]Kerry J. Knoll
Perhaps after listening to all the people who have said good things about gliding possums, you have felt that strong impulse to go to the nearest sugar glider pet shop to buy yourself your very own gliding possum. Sometimes, you become so impulsive that you would right there and then purchase a gliding possum as if you are in a grocery store buying a bottle of water. However, before you get yourself a gliding possum for a pet, you should ask yourself if buying a gliding possum would be a good idea. If you find yourself doubting that it is, then perhaps you should stop to think about it carefully.
Although it may seem that nothing could get in the way of you walking into that sugar glider pet shop to purchase the glider, there are several important facts that you need to deal with. If money was never really an issue, then you should move on to evaluating yourself if you are ready to keep a pet. It is especially important that before you make the decision, you should learn more about gliding possums and how they are as pets. You need to be equipped with the knowledge of the things that they need as well as the things that would make their lives with you a little bit more comfortable. It is through this that you could evaluate yourself whether or not having them as pets could fit in your lifestyle. If you read more about sugar glider pet shops, you might just discover more information about gliding possums. Through this, you would be able to manage your expectations.
There may be a lot of sugar glider shops out there, but only a few of them have legal rights to sell exotic animals such as gliding possums. Since several of these so-called sugar glider pet shops are online, you could never really say if they are telling you the truth unless you visit the shop itself. However, online sugar glider pet shops might make things very convenient for you because you no longer need to leave the house to get the gliders that you want. Instead, they would offer to deliver the gliders to you free of charge. Several people have been tricked and if you don't want it to happen to you, it is best to check out the pet shop so that you could see the animal before you buy it. You should make a final decision only after you have visited the sugar glider pet shop and you have seen the animal.
Before you go to visit the pet shop, there are several things that you have to look for a legitimate sugar glider pet shop before you trust them. Here are some of the things that you need to be aware of.
These breeders are interested in having all their pet animals sold so try not to be carried away with all the sweet talk that they would do. Remember that it is their job to convince you so make it really difficult for them. Look into the gliding possum that they are selling. The physical features of the pet would also tell you if these breeders are good or not.
Second, try to ask them questions about the in breeding of their gliders. Once you have asked them questions that would make them think, the way they answer would reflect if they have indeed bred the gliding possums. Their familiarity of the animals will give you an idea of the animal that you are buying.
Look into the sugar glider pet shop. Make sure that the place is clean. Only those who are legit sellers can keep their place clean. If their sugar glider pet shop is not clean, then perhaps you might want to seek other breeders.
These may be very simple things that a sugar glider pet shop should be able to provide and if they don't sadly, you should be involved in any of them.
Kerry is a sugar glider enthusiast. For more great information on [http://www.sugarglideraspets.info/sugar-glider-pet-shop]sugar glider pet shop, visit [http://www.sugarglideraspets.info]http://www.sugarglideraspets.info.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Sugar-Glider-Pet-Shop:-What-You-Should-Be-Looking-For&id=6566452] Sugar Glider Pet Shop: What You Should Be Looking For
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Physical Characteristics of the Sugar Glider
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Size
Sugar gliders (SG), compared to other mammalian pets, are actually quite small at adulthood. An adult specimen will probably measure a maximum of seven inches from the tip of the snout to the tip of its tail.
The average length of an adult sugar glider in captivity is only about five inches, give or take a few centimeters.
When your SG reaches the six-inch mark, you already have an adult sugar glider that is ready to reproduce.
Fur Pattern
Though some variations exist, the common sugar bear has gray fur all over the top of its body. The underside of the honey bear also has fur, but the fur in this region of the marsupial's body is usually white or cream-colored. The cream-colored underside can easily be seen from afar because of the sharp contrast between the fur on the animal's neck and the fur on its head.
The sugar glider is a striped marsupial with characteristically thick stripes running from its facial region all the way to its back. The tail of the suggie is a combination of black and silver. The tip is usually covered with black fur. Now let us turn our attention to the SG's tail. Apart from being soft and cute, the sugar bear's tail is important for the animal's movement.
Tail
Some people think the glider uses its bushy tail to grab hold of stems and prey. Nope! The suggie's tail is actually more of a balancing and steering tool. When a honey bear glides, the tail is used to balance the weight and air movement, which then allows the animal to land safely on the other side. The glider-bear can also change its trajectory during the glide by shifting the direction of its tail.
The Glider's Face
A sugar glider's face is short, with most of the area being occupied by large eyes. The placement and size of the eyes are quite important for honey gliders in the wild because this ocular presentation allows the animal to scan its surroundings more effectively.
Think of the SG's eyes as a wide-angle lens. It cannot see very far, but it can view the entire landscape more effectively than other mammals. In one quick scan of its surroundings, a sugar bear can ascertain if danger or food is nearby.
The honey bear's face is covered with striped fur, except for its ears. The ears are short, soft, and move independently. This capability of the glider bear to move its ears in different directions at the same time allows this tiny marsupial to pick up sounds from its surroundings more efficiently.
Combine this keen sense of hearing with a wide viewing field, and you'll begin to understand how this small creature has withstood the challenges of natural selection and has emerged as one of the victors of mammalian evolution.
Though small, the sugar glider has been blessed by nature with a peculiar set of tools and senses that allow it outsmart and escape larger predators easily.
The Limbs and Feet
Like humans, sugar bears have a total of twenty digits on their limbs. A glider has a total of ten digits on its forefeet. Each digit is jointed, flexible, and has a sharp sword-like claw. The same applies to its hind feet.
Their long claws allow sugar gliders to grip their landing spots with ease after a short glide. Through gripping, the suggie is able to move from one tree to another with relative ease and without injury. Gripping lessens the impact upon landing and also helps evenly distribute the impact of the landing throughout the glider-bear's body.
The honey bear's hind feet are used not only for movement, but also for grooming -- a vitally important activity for marsupials. The third and fourth digits on the hind feet of the SG are physically locked together. This fusion creates a handy comb that the glider uses for a variety of daily grooming tasks including (but not limited to) the removal of parasites.
The Gliding Membrane
The gliding membrane is the one thing that truly separates the tiny marsupial from its larger possum cousins. Though this creature may be lacking in height and length, it does not lack in mobility or agility. Let's take a look at the glider bear's gliding membrane.
Unlike a bat's wings, the gliding membrane does not have the ligaments and bones of a skeletal framework. The gliding membrane is simply thick flexible skin that can be spread out extensively during a glide.
When an adult suggie jumps off a high point to glide downward, it stretches its forefeet and hind feet to activate the gliding membrane. Combine this movement with the glider's tail movements, and you have a perfect little gliding marsupial ready to transport it from tree to tree.
Important Notes:
Many people believe that a sugar glider is merely a miniature version of a flying squirrel. Although at first sight these two animals may look alike, biologically they are very different. For one, marsupials in general have retained some vestiges of their reptilian evolutionary past. These vestigial reptilian characteristics affect the honey bear's general behavior, capacity for environmental adaptation, physical characteristics, etc.
Are you worried that this marsupial might not live long enough to be fully appreciated by your kids? Don't be. A well cared for glider-bear can live for as long as twelve years in captivity!
My name is Gavin Mathews and I've been a Sugar Glider Enthusiast due to which, I've gained a good amount of knowledge about Sugar Gliders. As a Glider enthusiast, it is my goal to see that all pet Gliders are properly cared for, so I'd like to share my knowledge with you.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Physical-Characteristics-of-the-Sugar-Glider&id=6584468] Physical Characteristics of the Sugar Glider
Size
Sugar gliders (SG), compared to other mammalian pets, are actually quite small at adulthood. An adult specimen will probably measure a maximum of seven inches from the tip of the snout to the tip of its tail.
The average length of an adult sugar glider in captivity is only about five inches, give or take a few centimeters.
When your SG reaches the six-inch mark, you already have an adult sugar glider that is ready to reproduce.
Fur Pattern
Though some variations exist, the common sugar bear has gray fur all over the top of its body. The underside of the honey bear also has fur, but the fur in this region of the marsupial's body is usually white or cream-colored. The cream-colored underside can easily be seen from afar because of the sharp contrast between the fur on the animal's neck and the fur on its head.
The sugar glider is a striped marsupial with characteristically thick stripes running from its facial region all the way to its back. The tail of the suggie is a combination of black and silver. The tip is usually covered with black fur. Now let us turn our attention to the SG's tail. Apart from being soft and cute, the sugar bear's tail is important for the animal's movement.
Tail
Some people think the glider uses its bushy tail to grab hold of stems and prey. Nope! The suggie's tail is actually more of a balancing and steering tool. When a honey bear glides, the tail is used to balance the weight and air movement, which then allows the animal to land safely on the other side. The glider-bear can also change its trajectory during the glide by shifting the direction of its tail.
The Glider's Face
A sugar glider's face is short, with most of the area being occupied by large eyes. The placement and size of the eyes are quite important for honey gliders in the wild because this ocular presentation allows the animal to scan its surroundings more effectively.
Think of the SG's eyes as a wide-angle lens. It cannot see very far, but it can view the entire landscape more effectively than other mammals. In one quick scan of its surroundings, a sugar bear can ascertain if danger or food is nearby.
The honey bear's face is covered with striped fur, except for its ears. The ears are short, soft, and move independently. This capability of the glider bear to move its ears in different directions at the same time allows this tiny marsupial to pick up sounds from its surroundings more efficiently.
Combine this keen sense of hearing with a wide viewing field, and you'll begin to understand how this small creature has withstood the challenges of natural selection and has emerged as one of the victors of mammalian evolution.
Though small, the sugar glider has been blessed by nature with a peculiar set of tools and senses that allow it outsmart and escape larger predators easily.
The Limbs and Feet
Like humans, sugar bears have a total of twenty digits on their limbs. A glider has a total of ten digits on its forefeet. Each digit is jointed, flexible, and has a sharp sword-like claw. The same applies to its hind feet.
Their long claws allow sugar gliders to grip their landing spots with ease after a short glide. Through gripping, the suggie is able to move from one tree to another with relative ease and without injury. Gripping lessens the impact upon landing and also helps evenly distribute the impact of the landing throughout the glider-bear's body.
The honey bear's hind feet are used not only for movement, but also for grooming -- a vitally important activity for marsupials. The third and fourth digits on the hind feet of the SG are physically locked together. This fusion creates a handy comb that the glider uses for a variety of daily grooming tasks including (but not limited to) the removal of parasites.
The Gliding Membrane
The gliding membrane is the one thing that truly separates the tiny marsupial from its larger possum cousins. Though this creature may be lacking in height and length, it does not lack in mobility or agility. Let's take a look at the glider bear's gliding membrane.
Unlike a bat's wings, the gliding membrane does not have the ligaments and bones of a skeletal framework. The gliding membrane is simply thick flexible skin that can be spread out extensively during a glide.
When an adult suggie jumps off a high point to glide downward, it stretches its forefeet and hind feet to activate the gliding membrane. Combine this movement with the glider's tail movements, and you have a perfect little gliding marsupial ready to transport it from tree to tree.
Important Notes:
Many people believe that a sugar glider is merely a miniature version of a flying squirrel. Although at first sight these two animals may look alike, biologically they are very different. For one, marsupials in general have retained some vestiges of their reptilian evolutionary past. These vestigial reptilian characteristics affect the honey bear's general behavior, capacity for environmental adaptation, physical characteristics, etc.
Are you worried that this marsupial might not live long enough to be fully appreciated by your kids? Don't be. A well cared for glider-bear can live for as long as twelve years in captivity!
My name is Gavin Mathews and I've been a Sugar Glider Enthusiast due to which, I've gained a good amount of knowledge about Sugar Gliders. As a Glider enthusiast, it is my goal to see that all pet Gliders are properly cared for, so I'd like to share my knowledge with you.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Physical-Characteristics-of-the-Sugar-Glider&id=6584468] Physical Characteristics of the Sugar Glider
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Natural and Artificial Sugar Glider Pouches
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Natural Pouches
The scientific family Petauridae is home to different species of possums. The sugar glider (SG) is a possum, not an opossum (as many are led to believe). Not all members of the family Petauridae are capable of gliding through the air to reach short distances. As we have mentioned before, the sugar glider is a marsupial, no matter how small it is compared to larger related species like the Australian kangaroo.
Contrary to common belief, marsupials are not defined by the presence of pouches. Not all of them develop pouches.
What sets them apart is the way these animals reproduce. We have discussed earlier that marsupials do not gestate to full term. The reason for this is that they do not have well-developed placentas.
Mammals such as humans and elephants have placentas that can nourish a fetus to full term with little or no difficulty. Marsupials only have rudimentary placentas, which are inadequate for the purpose of nourishing a fetus until it becomes fully developed.
Marsupials often give birth to their young after a very short gestation period. After giving birth, they undertake the critical task of protecting their young until the organ systems of the young begin to mature. How small is a marsupial 'baby' compared to its adult parent? Well, an adult kangaroo can give birth to a young joey that is less than one gram in weight!
The pouches act as the natural home for the tiny joels. The sugar bear has 2 pouches and the glider mom can take care of 2 under developed joels at a time in the pouch which are designed to withstand tough climate affecting the soft and delicate young ones.
Artificial Pouches
The pet owners buy the fleece-pouches to simulate the natural one. There are many pet stores that are selling different kinds of them at their shop for a reasonable price. They loosely resemble a cloth purse or a pillow cover.
Here is the way you go about making one yourself.
Cut two square pieces of cloth (color and print of your choice) of size 14" width x 12" height. Let the cloth you chose be thick. Sew a soft liner to each square piece; the soft liner gives the young ones the tender feeling which is very vital in simulating the natural glider bear pouch. Sew the cloth on three sides with one side left open.
Turn inside out such that liner cloth is inside and the printed fabric is outside. Place iron hooks at the top that can come handy for hanging the fleece pillow in the cage.
Ensure that you sew really tight so that the glider thin legs don't get caught between the stitches. Preferably, use a sewing machine instead of hand stitching to get better results.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/sugar-glider-care-information/]Sugar Glider For A Pet
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Natural-and-Artificial-Sugar-Glider-Pouches&id=6586679] Natural and Artificial Sugar Glider Pouches
Natural Pouches
The scientific family Petauridae is home to different species of possums. The sugar glider (SG) is a possum, not an opossum (as many are led to believe). Not all members of the family Petauridae are capable of gliding through the air to reach short distances. As we have mentioned before, the sugar glider is a marsupial, no matter how small it is compared to larger related species like the Australian kangaroo.
Contrary to common belief, marsupials are not defined by the presence of pouches. Not all of them develop pouches.
What sets them apart is the way these animals reproduce. We have discussed earlier that marsupials do not gestate to full term. The reason for this is that they do not have well-developed placentas.
Mammals such as humans and elephants have placentas that can nourish a fetus to full term with little or no difficulty. Marsupials only have rudimentary placentas, which are inadequate for the purpose of nourishing a fetus until it becomes fully developed.
Marsupials often give birth to their young after a very short gestation period. After giving birth, they undertake the critical task of protecting their young until the organ systems of the young begin to mature. How small is a marsupial 'baby' compared to its adult parent? Well, an adult kangaroo can give birth to a young joey that is less than one gram in weight!
The pouches act as the natural home for the tiny joels. The sugar bear has 2 pouches and the glider mom can take care of 2 under developed joels at a time in the pouch which are designed to withstand tough climate affecting the soft and delicate young ones.
Artificial Pouches
The pet owners buy the fleece-pouches to simulate the natural one. There are many pet stores that are selling different kinds of them at their shop for a reasonable price. They loosely resemble a cloth purse or a pillow cover.
Here is the way you go about making one yourself.
Cut two square pieces of cloth (color and print of your choice) of size 14" width x 12" height. Let the cloth you chose be thick. Sew a soft liner to each square piece; the soft liner gives the young ones the tender feeling which is very vital in simulating the natural glider bear pouch. Sew the cloth on three sides with one side left open.
Turn inside out such that liner cloth is inside and the printed fabric is outside. Place iron hooks at the top that can come handy for hanging the fleece pillow in the cage.
Ensure that you sew really tight so that the glider thin legs don't get caught between the stitches. Preferably, use a sewing machine instead of hand stitching to get better results.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/sugar-glider-care-information/]Sugar Glider For A Pet
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Natural-and-Artificial-Sugar-Glider-Pouches&id=6586679] Natural and Artificial Sugar Glider Pouches
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Sugar Gliders Food Habitats: Risky Food Facts
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Not all human foods are safe for sugar gliders (SG). Some food items can cause toxicity in very small amounts, while others can cause organ failure in the long-term. Here are some of the examples that you should look out for.
Food Item: Chocolate
Evaluation:
Never give to a sugar glider
Explanation
Chocolate contains a smorgasbord of chemical compounds that can easily build up in a SG's system and cause immediate toxicity and death.
Food Item: Dairy products
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Dogs, cats, and sugar gliders have varying degrees of lactose intolerance. It is believed that SGs are unable to fully digest food items with lactose - so it's best to spare your glider bear the pain and just avoid giving it cheese and other dairy products entirely.
If you have to, make sure to give your sugar glider a very small portion only. Just a enough to give the animal a taste of the treat, and no more.
Frequency is also an important consideration. If you have given your honey glider a dairy-based treat twice this week, avoid giving the animal any more.
Food Item: Fruits & vegetables that are not peeled before being eaten
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Unless the berries or cauliflowers you have at home are 100% organically grown with no trace of pesticides at all, limit these treats as the pesticide content may be fatal to the small SG.
Food Item: Iceberg lettuce
Evaluation
Find a better substitute
Explanation
Iceberg lettuce may offer some roughage (digestible fiber) but it lacks the nutrients needed by sugar gliders to stay strong and healthy. Instead of giving a piece of iceberg lettuce to your glider, why not give it a piece of fresh fruit or some other vegetable?
Food Item: Animal fat
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Honey bears can become obese very quickly. Animal fats can pack so many calories per serving and can cause dire health consequences in the short-term.
Food Item: Table sugar
Evaluation
Never give to your pet
Explanation
Like animal fat, table sugar is just empty calories with none of the real nutrients needed by the animal for growth and repair. Just say "no!" to table sugar. It's worse than mealworms and insects.
Food Item: Fried food items
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Fried food items contain cooking oil, which also contains lots of empty calories. Stick to the glider bear's regular organic treat instead.
For more details on proper diet that can be fed, please read my article
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Sugar-Gliders-Food-Habitats:-Risky-Food-Facts&id=6588858] Sugar Gliders Food Habitats: Risky Food Facts
Not all human foods are safe for sugar gliders (SG). Some food items can cause toxicity in very small amounts, while others can cause organ failure in the long-term. Here are some of the examples that you should look out for.
Food Item: Chocolate
Evaluation:
Never give to a sugar glider
Explanation
Chocolate contains a smorgasbord of chemical compounds that can easily build up in a SG's system and cause immediate toxicity and death.
Food Item: Dairy products
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Dogs, cats, and sugar gliders have varying degrees of lactose intolerance. It is believed that SGs are unable to fully digest food items with lactose - so it's best to spare your glider bear the pain and just avoid giving it cheese and other dairy products entirely.
If you have to, make sure to give your sugar glider a very small portion only. Just a enough to give the animal a taste of the treat, and no more.
Frequency is also an important consideration. If you have given your honey glider a dairy-based treat twice this week, avoid giving the animal any more.
Food Item: Fruits & vegetables that are not peeled before being eaten
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Unless the berries or cauliflowers you have at home are 100% organically grown with no trace of pesticides at all, limit these treats as the pesticide content may be fatal to the small SG.
Food Item: Iceberg lettuce
Evaluation
Find a better substitute
Explanation
Iceberg lettuce may offer some roughage (digestible fiber) but it lacks the nutrients needed by sugar gliders to stay strong and healthy. Instead of giving a piece of iceberg lettuce to your glider, why not give it a piece of fresh fruit or some other vegetable?
Food Item: Animal fat
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Honey bears can become obese very quickly. Animal fats can pack so many calories per serving and can cause dire health consequences in the short-term.
Food Item: Table sugar
Evaluation
Never give to your pet
Explanation
Like animal fat, table sugar is just empty calories with none of the real nutrients needed by the animal for growth and repair. Just say "no!" to table sugar. It's worse than mealworms and insects.
Food Item: Fried food items
Evaluation
Give sparingly
Explanation
Fried food items contain cooking oil, which also contains lots of empty calories. Stick to the glider bear's regular organic treat instead.
For more details on proper diet that can be fed, please read my article
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Sugar-Gliders-Food-Habitats:-Risky-Food-Facts&id=6588858] Sugar Gliders Food Habitats: Risky Food Facts
Friday, December 23, 2011
The Meaning of Different Rabbit Noises
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=David_D._Warren]David D. Warren
Hearing different rabbit noises can worry pet owners especially during the first few days of adoption. If you are new to caring for rabbits, then it is most likely that you are clueless about various noises that they can make. You should not worry though, because this article will explain to you the meanings behind these noises of your pet.
You hear bunnies talk in cartoons and animated films but believe it or not, they do really have a way of communicating with their fellow bunnies as well as to you - their owners. Here are some of the most common sounds and behavior that they create and the meaning behind these:
Tooth Chattering - This is a rapid, soft chattering sound they create from their teeth or also known as "purring". You will usually observe this behavior when you are patting or cuddling them. They are as if telling you that they are content and happy with the way you care for them. Tooth chattering is also their way to tell you that they trust you.
Tooth Grinding - This is slower and louder than "purring" and often accompanied by other signs of discomfort like eye-bulging. They make this sound when they are in fear, discomfort or stress. It is best to observe them carefully when you start hearing grinding sounds because this might indicate problems with your bunnies.
Oinks/Honks - These sounds have various meanings. The soft oinking sound made by a doe can be associated to mating ritual. This is like them saying, "not tonight honey" or this can also be come-hither.
Chinning - This is a sound they create to mark their territory. This is a strong sign of affection or ownership.
Nips - Its meaning varies from "don't do that", "hey, pat me", "ouch", "I am sick, please help me". It is necessary to watch out for other body language to determine the exact meaning of this sound.
Nose Bumping/Rubbing - These animals can be very affectionate too and when they start rubbing noses with each other (or even with you); they want to show their love, trust and care.
Ears Straight Up - This is a sound made out of excitement. It is as if they are saying, "hey look at that" or "do you hear that".
Ears flat - This can be a sign that they just want to rest or could be sign that they are angry. To know the distinction, you need to see other actions from their end too - if they are lying with eyes closed or if they are growling or pawing at you.
Lunging at fellow rabbit or person - This is another sign of fear and telling you or other fellows to "back off".
Your pet rabbits may be making the above common sounds. It is best to observe their behaviors and sounds to make sure that you attend to their needs carefully. It may be confusing at first to distinguish the various movements they make in their ears or the sounds they create, but as time passes, you will become an expert too. You will be able to understand every little move they make as if you are able to communicate with them.
David D. Warren enjoys writing for The Rabbit Hutch Shop which sells [http://www.the-rabbit-hutch-shop.com/rabbit-hutches.html]rabbit hutch and [http://www.the-rabbit-hutch-shop.com/rabbit-hutches.html]rabbit hutches as well as a host of additional products.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Meaning-of-Different-Rabbit-Noises&id=6596014] The Meaning of Different Rabbit Noises
Hearing different rabbit noises can worry pet owners especially during the first few days of adoption. If you are new to caring for rabbits, then it is most likely that you are clueless about various noises that they can make. You should not worry though, because this article will explain to you the meanings behind these noises of your pet.
You hear bunnies talk in cartoons and animated films but believe it or not, they do really have a way of communicating with their fellow bunnies as well as to you - their owners. Here are some of the most common sounds and behavior that they create and the meaning behind these:
Tooth Chattering - This is a rapid, soft chattering sound they create from their teeth or also known as "purring". You will usually observe this behavior when you are patting or cuddling them. They are as if telling you that they are content and happy with the way you care for them. Tooth chattering is also their way to tell you that they trust you.
Tooth Grinding - This is slower and louder than "purring" and often accompanied by other signs of discomfort like eye-bulging. They make this sound when they are in fear, discomfort or stress. It is best to observe them carefully when you start hearing grinding sounds because this might indicate problems with your bunnies.
Oinks/Honks - These sounds have various meanings. The soft oinking sound made by a doe can be associated to mating ritual. This is like them saying, "not tonight honey" or this can also be come-hither.
Chinning - This is a sound they create to mark their territory. This is a strong sign of affection or ownership.
Nips - Its meaning varies from "don't do that", "hey, pat me", "ouch", "I am sick, please help me". It is necessary to watch out for other body language to determine the exact meaning of this sound.
Nose Bumping/Rubbing - These animals can be very affectionate too and when they start rubbing noses with each other (or even with you); they want to show their love, trust and care.
Ears Straight Up - This is a sound made out of excitement. It is as if they are saying, "hey look at that" or "do you hear that".
Ears flat - This can be a sign that they just want to rest or could be sign that they are angry. To know the distinction, you need to see other actions from their end too - if they are lying with eyes closed or if they are growling or pawing at you.
Lunging at fellow rabbit or person - This is another sign of fear and telling you or other fellows to "back off".
Your pet rabbits may be making the above common sounds. It is best to observe their behaviors and sounds to make sure that you attend to their needs carefully. It may be confusing at first to distinguish the various movements they make in their ears or the sounds they create, but as time passes, you will become an expert too. You will be able to understand every little move they make as if you are able to communicate with them.
David D. Warren enjoys writing for The Rabbit Hutch Shop which sells [http://www.the-rabbit-hutch-shop.com/rabbit-hutches.html]rabbit hutch and [http://www.the-rabbit-hutch-shop.com/rabbit-hutches.html]rabbit hutches as well as a host of additional products.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Meaning-of-Different-Rabbit-Noises&id=6596014] The Meaning of Different Rabbit Noises
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Sugar Gliders: Where To Get A Sugar Glider
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=CaSandra_Poulos]CaSandra Poulos
If you are reading this, then you are considering the possibility of owning a sugar glider, or if not, you might want to simply get to know this more about these popular and lovable creatures.
Welcome to the world of the sugar gliders! Sugar gliders are perfect pets for just about anyone to have. If you are alone and want a pet that is low in maintenance, then you have surely made the right decision of choosing a glider. Also, if you are a parent and your child has been asking you to get him or her one, a glider is also a good choice.
But above anything else, what is a sugar glider? Where do I find sugar gliders? These are just a few of the questions being asked by a glider newbies. They are exotic animals and this marsupial possum is also found in Australia, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. Although they closely resemble a flying squirrel, they are not in any way connected to flying squirrels. And because they are nocturnal creatures, gliders sleep during the day and play, jump and glide during nighttime.
They are called "Sugar Gliders" because of the two distinct characteristics they are known for. Sugar because they love anything sweet and glider for having a patagium, a membrane that gives them the ability to glide through the air effortlessly.
An adult glider is 5 to 6 inches in length and it has this long tail to balance its flying. It can hear any sound due to its ear being hairless. The standard color of a sugar glider is brown with stripes that give it an almost squirrel-like in appearance. They have big, protruding eyes that are common in most nocturnal animals to give them a wider field of vision.
Now, where are you going to get a one for yourself or someone else? First, you must know that sugar glider sales are closely regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in the states. Anyone, not just a breeder, but anyone, selling a glider is required to hold a USDA license, and there are absolutely no exceptions.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of people who will try to get around these laws. They will claim that they are exempt from the regulations because they run a "rescue" operation or a shelter for these furry little creatures, but these is just a hook in to then sell you one. There is no over population or epidemic with people handing over their gliders in the US. These con-artists will try to tell you that there is a problem and that is why they are outside of the laws. This is not true, do not believe them. They are trying to illegally sell sugar gliders without the pesky regulations of the government and costly fees associated with being a legitimate breeder and seller.
There are legal, honest, legitimate rel=nofollow [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/sugar_glider_breeders/]sugar glider breeders and sellers out there who are going to not only help you pick the perfect little friend to bring home, but will also offer you helpful care information for your new family member. You can easily find listings for breeders on-line, just make sure that you ask to see a copy of their USDA license. Honest breeders are happy to show you their license, and if a breeder doesn't want to show you their license, then it is best to move on and find someone else!
You can also check your local exotic pet shop: many will have sugar gliders readily available or be able to get one for you or put you in touch with a qualified breeder. Either way, owning a sugar glider can be a fun and rewarding experience as long as you use a little caution and common sense during the purchase process.
CaSandra Poulos is an avid lover of sugar gliders and offers a free "10 Things You Have To Know About Sugar Gliders-Before You Buy One!" email mini-course at http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Sugar-Gliders:-Where-To-Get-A-Sugar-Glider&id=6595331] Sugar Gliders: Where To Get A Sugar Glider
If you are reading this, then you are considering the possibility of owning a sugar glider, or if not, you might want to simply get to know this more about these popular and lovable creatures.
Welcome to the world of the sugar gliders! Sugar gliders are perfect pets for just about anyone to have. If you are alone and want a pet that is low in maintenance, then you have surely made the right decision of choosing a glider. Also, if you are a parent and your child has been asking you to get him or her one, a glider is also a good choice.
But above anything else, what is a sugar glider? Where do I find sugar gliders? These are just a few of the questions being asked by a glider newbies. They are exotic animals and this marsupial possum is also found in Australia, Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. Although they closely resemble a flying squirrel, they are not in any way connected to flying squirrels. And because they are nocturnal creatures, gliders sleep during the day and play, jump and glide during nighttime.
They are called "Sugar Gliders" because of the two distinct characteristics they are known for. Sugar because they love anything sweet and glider for having a patagium, a membrane that gives them the ability to glide through the air effortlessly.
An adult glider is 5 to 6 inches in length and it has this long tail to balance its flying. It can hear any sound due to its ear being hairless. The standard color of a sugar glider is brown with stripes that give it an almost squirrel-like in appearance. They have big, protruding eyes that are common in most nocturnal animals to give them a wider field of vision.
Now, where are you going to get a one for yourself or someone else? First, you must know that sugar glider sales are closely regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in the states. Anyone, not just a breeder, but anyone, selling a glider is required to hold a USDA license, and there are absolutely no exceptions.
Unfortunately, there are a lot of people who will try to get around these laws. They will claim that they are exempt from the regulations because they run a "rescue" operation or a shelter for these furry little creatures, but these is just a hook in to then sell you one. There is no over population or epidemic with people handing over their gliders in the US. These con-artists will try to tell you that there is a problem and that is why they are outside of the laws. This is not true, do not believe them. They are trying to illegally sell sugar gliders without the pesky regulations of the government and costly fees associated with being a legitimate breeder and seller.
There are legal, honest, legitimate rel=nofollow [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/sugar_glider_breeders/]sugar glider breeders and sellers out there who are going to not only help you pick the perfect little friend to bring home, but will also offer you helpful care information for your new family member. You can easily find listings for breeders on-line, just make sure that you ask to see a copy of their USDA license. Honest breeders are happy to show you their license, and if a breeder doesn't want to show you their license, then it is best to move on and find someone else!
You can also check your local exotic pet shop: many will have sugar gliders readily available or be able to get one for you or put you in touch with a qualified breeder. Either way, owning a sugar glider can be a fun and rewarding experience as long as you use a little caution and common sense during the purchase process.
CaSandra Poulos is an avid lover of sugar gliders and offers a free "10 Things You Have To Know About Sugar Gliders-Before You Buy One!" email mini-course at http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Sugar-Gliders:-Where-To-Get-A-Sugar-Glider&id=6595331] Sugar Gliders: Where To Get A Sugar Glider
Monday, December 19, 2011
Chinchillas As Pets
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jack_Sterling]Jack Sterling
You may be planning on buying a chinchilla.
If not for you, then perhaps for a loved one or for your children. Before you can bring in a brand new furry friend to your home however, it really is of critical importance that you choose to have a look at chinchilla info and learn about exactly what there is to find out about the animal.
The chinchilla can live to be about 15, give or take a couple of years. Some chinchillas only live 12 years, whilst others live a longer life; up till the age of 20. It is easily possible to get yourself a tame chinchilla, so long as you provide them with the attention and nurturing they crave while they are young.
Note: Just in case you're considering buying a chinchilla for a child: Show the child the best way to properly take care of the chinchilla. Even though it may appear all warm and cuddly, the chinchilla can and most often will bite when it feels threatened. In case the child by mistake squeezes the rodent a little too hard, it might panic and bite. Sit down with the youngster and show him/her the best way to hold and pet the chinchilla. If taken care of early on, you won't have any bite marks from your chinchilla.
But what about the scent?
You're in luck! Chinchillas do not share the "unique" odor that other rodents possess. Owning a chinchilla will not turn your house into a mini zoo in the case of smells. If you clean your chinchilla's cage once a week, you should have a pretty much odor free zone. In fact, strong smells from the chinchilla may indicate that it's got some kind of parasite (in the event you haven't cleaned it in a while, then its most likely just it's cage)
What does it eat?
Mostly pellets intended for the animal. You could supplement the pellets with a little spinach or hay, but keep in mind that most of the chinchilla's daily consumption have to come from the pellets. That does not mean that the chinchilla is picky when it comes to food. It may dine on a leftover burger, some nachos, chips and other salty food, for that reason be sure you do not have leftover food close to it's cage when you let it out to be able to play. In case the teeth grow too particularly long, it may hinder it's ability to eat, therefore getting something for it to munch on is really important. At the same time, keep a vitamin or sodium block in the cage for vitamins.
Can I train it?
Yes, you certainly can. As with most other animals, the method to train a chinchilla is through food treats. You could lure it with a small piece of fruit. Place the piece of fruit on your shoulder/arm/hand and wait for the animal to leap on to you. Make sure to pet it extensively afterwards!
Buying a chinchilla
I will now go over a couple of things that you need to keep in mind at the pet store/breeder if you choose to buy a chinchilla. The best time to get yourself a chinchilla is when they are 10 weeks old, should you get them at an earlier age, they might not necessarily have had the sufficient contact required from it's parents or siblings. If you're able to, ask to see it's mother and father before buying it. Look out for spots of fur missing, watery eyes and drooling (drooling usually means tooth issues). Some great attributes to search for in a new chinchilla tend to be: curiosity, healthy looking eyes and pelt, along with a good personality.
Hopefully I have helped shed light on the most crucial things for you.
Having chinchillas as pets is a fantastic thing.
Curious about what it's like to have chinchillas as pets you can find this and much more at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Chinchillas-As-Pets&id=6584173] Chinchillas As Pets
You may be planning on buying a chinchilla.
If not for you, then perhaps for a loved one or for your children. Before you can bring in a brand new furry friend to your home however, it really is of critical importance that you choose to have a look at chinchilla info and learn about exactly what there is to find out about the animal.
The chinchilla can live to be about 15, give or take a couple of years. Some chinchillas only live 12 years, whilst others live a longer life; up till the age of 20. It is easily possible to get yourself a tame chinchilla, so long as you provide them with the attention and nurturing they crave while they are young.
Note: Just in case you're considering buying a chinchilla for a child: Show the child the best way to properly take care of the chinchilla. Even though it may appear all warm and cuddly, the chinchilla can and most often will bite when it feels threatened. In case the child by mistake squeezes the rodent a little too hard, it might panic and bite. Sit down with the youngster and show him/her the best way to hold and pet the chinchilla. If taken care of early on, you won't have any bite marks from your chinchilla.
But what about the scent?
You're in luck! Chinchillas do not share the "unique" odor that other rodents possess. Owning a chinchilla will not turn your house into a mini zoo in the case of smells. If you clean your chinchilla's cage once a week, you should have a pretty much odor free zone. In fact, strong smells from the chinchilla may indicate that it's got some kind of parasite (in the event you haven't cleaned it in a while, then its most likely just it's cage)
What does it eat?
Mostly pellets intended for the animal. You could supplement the pellets with a little spinach or hay, but keep in mind that most of the chinchilla's daily consumption have to come from the pellets. That does not mean that the chinchilla is picky when it comes to food. It may dine on a leftover burger, some nachos, chips and other salty food, for that reason be sure you do not have leftover food close to it's cage when you let it out to be able to play. In case the teeth grow too particularly long, it may hinder it's ability to eat, therefore getting something for it to munch on is really important. At the same time, keep a vitamin or sodium block in the cage for vitamins.
Can I train it?
Yes, you certainly can. As with most other animals, the method to train a chinchilla is through food treats. You could lure it with a small piece of fruit. Place the piece of fruit on your shoulder/arm/hand and wait for the animal to leap on to you. Make sure to pet it extensively afterwards!
Buying a chinchilla
I will now go over a couple of things that you need to keep in mind at the pet store/breeder if you choose to buy a chinchilla. The best time to get yourself a chinchilla is when they are 10 weeks old, should you get them at an earlier age, they might not necessarily have had the sufficient contact required from it's parents or siblings. If you're able to, ask to see it's mother and father before buying it. Look out for spots of fur missing, watery eyes and drooling (drooling usually means tooth issues). Some great attributes to search for in a new chinchilla tend to be: curiosity, healthy looking eyes and pelt, along with a good personality.
Hopefully I have helped shed light on the most crucial things for you.
Having chinchillas as pets is a fantastic thing.
Curious about what it's like to have chinchillas as pets you can find this and much more at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Chinchillas-As-Pets&id=6584173] Chinchillas As Pets
Saturday, December 17, 2011
Chinchilla Facts - Things You May Not Know
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jack_Sterling]Jack Sterling
Chinchilla origins
Chinchillas are petite rodents that hail from the Andes mountains in Latin America.
Their curious name translates as "little Chincha", named after the Chincha people from the previously mentioned Andes mountain range.
There are two distinct chinchilla varieties; one is called the short-tailed chinchilla, and the other is appropriately named the long-tailed chinchilla. While the 2 species have several comparable features, the short-tailed rodent possesses broader shoulders, a thicker neck and, as the name implies, a smaller tail.
Natural habitat of the chinchilla
In the wild, chinchillas live as a group in herds. They're usually located in mountain crevices in addition to burrows. For a small, as well as not notably ferocious rodent, the chinchilla possesses a wide variety of predators that it should stay clear of; for instance snakes, canines, skunks, in addition to various birds of prey. In the case of an attack, it protects itself against the predators by squirting urine and releasing tufts of fur, should it get injured or seized. Wild chinchillas dine on fresh fruits, plants, tiny insects and seeds.
Chinchillas can select to breed during virtually any time of the year. Their pregnancy period lasts an impressive one hundred and eleven days, longer compared to most other rodents. Because of the extensive pregnancy length, chinchillas are typically born with open eyes and also a body loaded with fur. The litters average in between 1 and 2. The majority give birth to twins.
Several informative and enjoyable chinchilla facts
Chinchillas has a lifespan between 10 and 20 years. At this point, the oldest specimen heard about accomplished an incredible 27 to 29 years of age.
Chinchillas are, just like some other rodents, gifted by having an astounding ability when it comes to jumping. They have been seen to leap up to 6 feet high into the air.
Their fur is amazingly soft; an unlucky trait that caused an earlier variety of the rodent to go extinct as a consequence of excessive hunting.
The chinchilla cannot sweat, thus it has to maintain its temperature below 80� (25�C), otherwise it may get overheated. It has to direct heat to its large ears via the bloodstream, so if you notice that your fuzzy pet suddenly started sporting crimson ears; it's time for you to cool it down!
They're a nocturnal rodent. They're awake during the night and asleep throughout the day. Remember this if perhaps you're thinking about placing your chinchilla in the bedroom.
If you're interested to know more about chinchillas and [http://allchinchillafacts.com/]chinchilla facts in general, please check out All Chinchilla Facts at [http://www.allchinchillafacts.com]http://www.allchinchillafacts.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Chinchilla-Facts---Things-You-May-Not-Know&id=6581188] Chinchilla Facts - Things You May Not Know
Chinchilla origins
Chinchillas are petite rodents that hail from the Andes mountains in Latin America.
Their curious name translates as "little Chincha", named after the Chincha people from the previously mentioned Andes mountain range.
There are two distinct chinchilla varieties; one is called the short-tailed chinchilla, and the other is appropriately named the long-tailed chinchilla. While the 2 species have several comparable features, the short-tailed rodent possesses broader shoulders, a thicker neck and, as the name implies, a smaller tail.
Natural habitat of the chinchilla
In the wild, chinchillas live as a group in herds. They're usually located in mountain crevices in addition to burrows. For a small, as well as not notably ferocious rodent, the chinchilla possesses a wide variety of predators that it should stay clear of; for instance snakes, canines, skunks, in addition to various birds of prey. In the case of an attack, it protects itself against the predators by squirting urine and releasing tufts of fur, should it get injured or seized. Wild chinchillas dine on fresh fruits, plants, tiny insects and seeds.
Chinchillas can select to breed during virtually any time of the year. Their pregnancy period lasts an impressive one hundred and eleven days, longer compared to most other rodents. Because of the extensive pregnancy length, chinchillas are typically born with open eyes and also a body loaded with fur. The litters average in between 1 and 2. The majority give birth to twins.
Several informative and enjoyable chinchilla facts
Chinchillas has a lifespan between 10 and 20 years. At this point, the oldest specimen heard about accomplished an incredible 27 to 29 years of age.
Chinchillas are, just like some other rodents, gifted by having an astounding ability when it comes to jumping. They have been seen to leap up to 6 feet high into the air.
Their fur is amazingly soft; an unlucky trait that caused an earlier variety of the rodent to go extinct as a consequence of excessive hunting.
The chinchilla cannot sweat, thus it has to maintain its temperature below 80� (25�C), otherwise it may get overheated. It has to direct heat to its large ears via the bloodstream, so if you notice that your fuzzy pet suddenly started sporting crimson ears; it's time for you to cool it down!
They're a nocturnal rodent. They're awake during the night and asleep throughout the day. Remember this if perhaps you're thinking about placing your chinchilla in the bedroom.
If you're interested to know more about chinchillas and [http://allchinchillafacts.com/]chinchilla facts in general, please check out All Chinchilla Facts at [http://www.allchinchillafacts.com]http://www.allchinchillafacts.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Chinchilla-Facts---Things-You-May-Not-Know&id=6581188] Chinchilla Facts - Things You May Not Know
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Information On Sugar Glider Care
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_Brennen]Mike Brennen
Once you observe how cute these small animals are, it becomes no surprise why sugar gliders are capturing the hearts of people at an increasing rate. At 5 to 7 inches long and weighing a tiny 6 ounces, they are very cute and appeal to many prospective owners who are looking for a playful, cheerful and low maintenance pet.
Once you learn the truth about sugar gliders and eliminate common misconceptions about bringing one into your home, you will be happy to realize the docile and loyal nature of this creature. Let's start with the species: sugar gliders are of the marsupial class, they are a mammal which originate from Australia. The sugar glider is not a rodent, although they bare a resemblance to that species. The second thing you should realize is their natural behavior and ability to bond with humans, they are very docile and loyal creatures. Unlike other common household mammals such as gerbils, ferrets or mice, sugar gliders have the instinctive ability to form a bond with you as an owner and remain increasingly loyal throughout your relationship. Rest assured that your glider will not chew up your furniture or objects in your house nor will they try to escape your care. Prepare for many hours of fun and enjoyment with your glider as they jump from one piece of furniture to another in your house as they show appreciation for your presence.
When choosing a schedule to play with your sugar glider, take into consideration that they are nocturnal creatures by nature, in other words they like to remain active at night. Don't worry about any conflict of schedule between your daytime activity and it's nighttime activity though. It is possible to train and adjust your glider's activity from night to regular daytime hours without causing it any harm. Most owners usually decide to keep their glider on it's natural nighttime schedule so they can be prepared to meet each other in the evening for companionship after the owner/common 9 to 5 worker arrives home from work. This is due to the daytime obligations most people having which prevent them from being around it. A night schedule can be an ideal option if you work during the day. As it sleeps during the day while you are at work, it will be well rested, awake and ready to play with you in the evening hours. I'm sure most people would like to carry their glider around as company and care for it throughout their daily grind, unfortunately this is unrealistic for the normal 9 to 5 schedule.
As small, low-maintenance animals, sugar gliders are relatively inexpensive pets to own and take care of. In fact, the cost to feed a single sugar glider is a minimum of about $2,000 a year and regular medical expenses are virtually non-existent. As long as you educate yourself on the basic necessities for your glider and shop smart, you will save on purchasing items which are an unnecessary luxury such as exotic fruits and live insect diets. Save on medical expenses and trips for veterinarian care which is required for most other pets because sugar gliders are free of any disease or aliments which require regular vaccination. You will not have to worry about attracting any illness either when in the presence of your glider, they don't bother people who normally have allergic reactions to animals.
If you are concerned with how your new sugar glider will co-exist with other types of pets already living in your home you will be happy to learn that they have a natural ability to bond with other animals. In their native wilderness, sugar gliders thrive in large colonies as a way of life. This instinctive behavior of surviving in colonies and frequent socialism in the wild gives them a natural ability to bond with other animals and adapt in a household environment. Many owners have expressed their satisfaction in maintaining a peaceful and happy environment of their glider co-existing with cats, dogs and birds.
The happiness and fulfillment to be gained by owning a sugar glider are plenty. As an unconditional companion, it is the perfect pet and addition to your family from their lovable presence and ease of care.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great information on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]sugar glider care, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/] http://thesugarglidersolution.com/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Information-On-Sugar-Glider-Care&id=6556650] Information On Sugar Glider Care
Once you observe how cute these small animals are, it becomes no surprise why sugar gliders are capturing the hearts of people at an increasing rate. At 5 to 7 inches long and weighing a tiny 6 ounces, they are very cute and appeal to many prospective owners who are looking for a playful, cheerful and low maintenance pet.
Once you learn the truth about sugar gliders and eliminate common misconceptions about bringing one into your home, you will be happy to realize the docile and loyal nature of this creature. Let's start with the species: sugar gliders are of the marsupial class, they are a mammal which originate from Australia. The sugar glider is not a rodent, although they bare a resemblance to that species. The second thing you should realize is their natural behavior and ability to bond with humans, they are very docile and loyal creatures. Unlike other common household mammals such as gerbils, ferrets or mice, sugar gliders have the instinctive ability to form a bond with you as an owner and remain increasingly loyal throughout your relationship. Rest assured that your glider will not chew up your furniture or objects in your house nor will they try to escape your care. Prepare for many hours of fun and enjoyment with your glider as they jump from one piece of furniture to another in your house as they show appreciation for your presence.
When choosing a schedule to play with your sugar glider, take into consideration that they are nocturnal creatures by nature, in other words they like to remain active at night. Don't worry about any conflict of schedule between your daytime activity and it's nighttime activity though. It is possible to train and adjust your glider's activity from night to regular daytime hours without causing it any harm. Most owners usually decide to keep their glider on it's natural nighttime schedule so they can be prepared to meet each other in the evening for companionship after the owner/common 9 to 5 worker arrives home from work. This is due to the daytime obligations most people having which prevent them from being around it. A night schedule can be an ideal option if you work during the day. As it sleeps during the day while you are at work, it will be well rested, awake and ready to play with you in the evening hours. I'm sure most people would like to carry their glider around as company and care for it throughout their daily grind, unfortunately this is unrealistic for the normal 9 to 5 schedule.
As small, low-maintenance animals, sugar gliders are relatively inexpensive pets to own and take care of. In fact, the cost to feed a single sugar glider is a minimum of about $2,000 a year and regular medical expenses are virtually non-existent. As long as you educate yourself on the basic necessities for your glider and shop smart, you will save on purchasing items which are an unnecessary luxury such as exotic fruits and live insect diets. Save on medical expenses and trips for veterinarian care which is required for most other pets because sugar gliders are free of any disease or aliments which require regular vaccination. You will not have to worry about attracting any illness either when in the presence of your glider, they don't bother people who normally have allergic reactions to animals.
If you are concerned with how your new sugar glider will co-exist with other types of pets already living in your home you will be happy to learn that they have a natural ability to bond with other animals. In their native wilderness, sugar gliders thrive in large colonies as a way of life. This instinctive behavior of surviving in colonies and frequent socialism in the wild gives them a natural ability to bond with other animals and adapt in a household environment. Many owners have expressed their satisfaction in maintaining a peaceful and happy environment of their glider co-existing with cats, dogs and birds.
The happiness and fulfillment to be gained by owning a sugar glider are plenty. As an unconditional companion, it is the perfect pet and addition to your family from their lovable presence and ease of care.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great information on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]sugar glider care, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/] http://thesugarglidersolution.com/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Information-On-Sugar-Glider-Care&id=6556650] Information On Sugar Glider Care
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Getting A Great Sugar Glider From Great Breeders
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_Brennen]Mike Brennen
Try to resist the urge of reaching into your pocket and purchasing a sugar glider on impulse without first educating yourself on a few important facts which will ensure the health and safety of your glider in the long run. The adorable sight of a sugar glider is enough to make the average person neglect the care and precaution necessary in finding a legitimate breeder to purchase from when shopping. Don't fall into a trap which may cause you and your glider problems in the future.
The bonding stage between a baby sugar glider, or "joey" and it's new owner is very important. Once the glider reaches 7 to 9 weeks old and is able to function independently, it is the best time for the instinctive process of bonding to begin as the glider leaves it's mother and becomes connected to its owner. For this reason it is best to purchase a joey rather than an adult glider. The process of a baby joey bonding with it's owner is a gradual process, taking up to two months or more as the glider grows from joey to young adulthood. The caring and dedication of the sugar glider breeder is as crucial to whether your joey will be able to effectively begin bonding with you upon purchase as you're caring and dedication in handling you're glider during the first two months of owning it. Without enough handling and exposure to it's owner, sugar gliders can be very hard to achieve a bond with, if ever so be sure to nurture it during the important two month bonding period.
You play an important part in the health and well-being of a sugar glider by using knowledge and keen observation. Look for signs of good health in a glider before buying one by searching for a muscular build in it's frame and a black tone in it's eyes. Obviously it is more ideal to observe these health characteristics when viewing your sugar glider in person. This is why purchasing your glider online by studying pictures leaves a lot of factors to deal with when insuring whether you will receive one which is truly healthy and properly cared for. Unfortunately, many websites jeopardize the health and well-being of sugar gliders by offering to ship them to an airport for pickup. The stressful environment of airline transportation should be avoided at all costs as it imposes an unnecessary threat to the well-being of sugar gliders, sometimes causing death or long-term complications to gliders which cannot cope with the inferior conditions.
Always locate and arrange a reputable breeder in your area who is willing to meet with you and provide your joey glider in person. An even better option is to make a visit to their breeding facility and observe the standards of health, care and breeding used. Thankfully there are laws in place which are here to protect the safety of sugar gliders and help you identify reputable breeders quickly. A federal license has been issued by the United States which is required by those who would like to be a merchant of baby glider joeys. Those who do not have this official license are not reputable as breeders and should be ignored immediately. You can recognize a reputable breeder if they welcome your request to visit their facility, it is proof that they respect and uphold the well-being of their gliders. Feel free to gain useful advice from the breeder, if they are dedicated they will most likely provide a wealth of knowledge for you to use.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more information on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeders/]sugar glider breeders, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeders/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Getting-A-Great-Sugar-Glider-From-Great-Breeders&id=6556659] Getting A Great Sugar Glider From Great Breeders
Try to resist the urge of reaching into your pocket and purchasing a sugar glider on impulse without first educating yourself on a few important facts which will ensure the health and safety of your glider in the long run. The adorable sight of a sugar glider is enough to make the average person neglect the care and precaution necessary in finding a legitimate breeder to purchase from when shopping. Don't fall into a trap which may cause you and your glider problems in the future.
The bonding stage between a baby sugar glider, or "joey" and it's new owner is very important. Once the glider reaches 7 to 9 weeks old and is able to function independently, it is the best time for the instinctive process of bonding to begin as the glider leaves it's mother and becomes connected to its owner. For this reason it is best to purchase a joey rather than an adult glider. The process of a baby joey bonding with it's owner is a gradual process, taking up to two months or more as the glider grows from joey to young adulthood. The caring and dedication of the sugar glider breeder is as crucial to whether your joey will be able to effectively begin bonding with you upon purchase as you're caring and dedication in handling you're glider during the first two months of owning it. Without enough handling and exposure to it's owner, sugar gliders can be very hard to achieve a bond with, if ever so be sure to nurture it during the important two month bonding period.
You play an important part in the health and well-being of a sugar glider by using knowledge and keen observation. Look for signs of good health in a glider before buying one by searching for a muscular build in it's frame and a black tone in it's eyes. Obviously it is more ideal to observe these health characteristics when viewing your sugar glider in person. This is why purchasing your glider online by studying pictures leaves a lot of factors to deal with when insuring whether you will receive one which is truly healthy and properly cared for. Unfortunately, many websites jeopardize the health and well-being of sugar gliders by offering to ship them to an airport for pickup. The stressful environment of airline transportation should be avoided at all costs as it imposes an unnecessary threat to the well-being of sugar gliders, sometimes causing death or long-term complications to gliders which cannot cope with the inferior conditions.
Always locate and arrange a reputable breeder in your area who is willing to meet with you and provide your joey glider in person. An even better option is to make a visit to their breeding facility and observe the standards of health, care and breeding used. Thankfully there are laws in place which are here to protect the safety of sugar gliders and help you identify reputable breeders quickly. A federal license has been issued by the United States which is required by those who would like to be a merchant of baby glider joeys. Those who do not have this official license are not reputable as breeders and should be ignored immediately. You can recognize a reputable breeder if they welcome your request to visit their facility, it is proof that they respect and uphold the well-being of their gliders. Feel free to gain useful advice from the breeder, if they are dedicated they will most likely provide a wealth of knowledge for you to use.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more information on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeders/]sugar glider breeders, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeders/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Getting-A-Great-Sugar-Glider-From-Great-Breeders&id=6556659] Getting A Great Sugar Glider From Great Breeders
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Top Tips on Sugar Glider Care
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Amy_Louise_Richards]Amy Louise Richards
The United States is among the most animal loving countries. It is also the place where exotic pets are in demand and highly wanted. This makes the US the second home for sugar gliders; the sweetest, most caring exotic animals. Though small in size (about 5 to 7 inches), these cute animals can show you the biggest amount of affection and can be the warmest of companions.
The lack of information for people about these great pets incites confusion. Some people claim that sugar gliders are rodents while in fact, they are marsupials found in Australia. Sugar gliders can be trained, not like rodents such as hamsters, ferrets and gerbils.
True to their name, sugar gliders bring a dose of sweetness to any home as they tend to make a connection to their human family. At the same time, these pets are not like rodents that chew, nibble and bite anything and everything. This means they can run, or "glide" around the house with the owner's peace of mind.
Sugar gliders do have similarities to rodents as they are also nocturnal. Thus, expect them to be awake at night. However, you can train them to schedule their sleep in a manner that will benefit you. Most glider owners, though, want their pets to stay awake in the evening so that when they leave for work in the morning, their pets are asleep.
These pets may be expensive but rearing them would not cost a lot. An average of $2,000 annually will suffice the food needs of a sugar glider. But there are owners who shower their pets with extravagant treats, giving them live insects and exotic fruits for their meals. It is of course, up to the owner how to treat their pets, but If dogs are treated to spas and other grooming services, then gliders deserve to get treats every so often too. And since pet owners do not have to spend for occasional animal vaccines and medications for ailments, it is justifiable to give gliders some extra treats.
Some people also believe that gliders find it hard to mingle with other animals. This, of course is not true as sugar gliders are known as among the most social of animals. Naturally, they live in a colony back in the wilderness so they find it easy to bond with other animals in your house. You may even be surprised to see your glider playing with the dogs and cats at home.
These cute animals bring a lot of positive energy and joy to a household; that is why it is never a wrong decision to get one.
Amy Richards has been caring for these wonderful pets for many years and is a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/]Sugar Glider Pet Shop expert. For more information on [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/sugar-glider-care-information/]Sugar Glider Care please visit her website via this link.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Top-Tips-on-Sugar-Glider-Care&id=6599749] Top Tips on Sugar Glider Care
The United States is among the most animal loving countries. It is also the place where exotic pets are in demand and highly wanted. This makes the US the second home for sugar gliders; the sweetest, most caring exotic animals. Though small in size (about 5 to 7 inches), these cute animals can show you the biggest amount of affection and can be the warmest of companions.
The lack of information for people about these great pets incites confusion. Some people claim that sugar gliders are rodents while in fact, they are marsupials found in Australia. Sugar gliders can be trained, not like rodents such as hamsters, ferrets and gerbils.
True to their name, sugar gliders bring a dose of sweetness to any home as they tend to make a connection to their human family. At the same time, these pets are not like rodents that chew, nibble and bite anything and everything. This means they can run, or "glide" around the house with the owner's peace of mind.
Sugar gliders do have similarities to rodents as they are also nocturnal. Thus, expect them to be awake at night. However, you can train them to schedule their sleep in a manner that will benefit you. Most glider owners, though, want their pets to stay awake in the evening so that when they leave for work in the morning, their pets are asleep.
These pets may be expensive but rearing them would not cost a lot. An average of $2,000 annually will suffice the food needs of a sugar glider. But there are owners who shower their pets with extravagant treats, giving them live insects and exotic fruits for their meals. It is of course, up to the owner how to treat their pets, but If dogs are treated to spas and other grooming services, then gliders deserve to get treats every so often too. And since pet owners do not have to spend for occasional animal vaccines and medications for ailments, it is justifiable to give gliders some extra treats.
Some people also believe that gliders find it hard to mingle with other animals. This, of course is not true as sugar gliders are known as among the most social of animals. Naturally, they live in a colony back in the wilderness so they find it easy to bond with other animals in your house. You may even be surprised to see your glider playing with the dogs and cats at home.
These cute animals bring a lot of positive energy and joy to a household; that is why it is never a wrong decision to get one.
Amy Richards has been caring for these wonderful pets for many years and is a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/]Sugar Glider Pet Shop expert. For more information on [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/sugar-glider-care-information/]Sugar Glider Care please visit her website via this link.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Top-Tips-on-Sugar-Glider-Care&id=6599749] Top Tips on Sugar Glider Care
Friday, December 9, 2011
The Right Way To Approach Sugar Glider Sales
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_Brennen]Mike Brennen
In purchasing a sugar glider, it is important to weigh your desire to own one with the proper education on how to make a safe and legitimate purchase from a dealer, then understand how to properly care for your glider once you bring it into your home. The first thing you must realize is that the sugar glider is an exotic pet which originates from the Australian wilderness, you will be hard-pressed to find one by walking into most pet stores. Study and educate yourself below about the important health, safety and growth cycle facts of sugar gliders to ensure you make the right decision during your purchase.
Most people consider the internet as their first resource to purchase a sugar glider for a quick and easy transaction. Unfortunately the anonymity of the internet and careless sugar glider merchants can make buying this exotic pet online an unsafe option, although their are many merchants you can find who are caring and reliable. Lack of education and the speed of making a purchase online can lure people into the trap of illegitimate merchants who seek to sell these exotic pets at comparatively reasonable prices. Do not consider websites which look suspicious or seem to run a business which is unacceptable in nature.
Allow me to help you identify the good sugar glider breeder, those who care about the well-being of their gliders and stay away from the bad breeders, those who are only out to make a quick buck at the expense of a glider's safety. Like any area of commerce, there are some merchants who will try to deceive the consumer by exaggerating their sales material and incentives to make the fastest sale possible. One illegitimate sales practice you should always beware of is when the breeder offers to ship your sugar glider to an airport nearest to you. Airplane shipment is not a good way to receive any pet due to travel conditions and stress factors exhibited upon animals during the process. Fortunately, the amount of caring and reliable sugar glider breeders outnumber those who are illegitimate so look forward to meeting a breeder who has you and the glider's best interests in mind. You will realize that the quality of specimen you receive from dedicated breeders are top-notch, they operate a business of breeding gliders which upholds acceptable standards. Safety and health precautions are taken between dedicated and prospective owners to ensure the glider is given to the new owner in optimal condition. The truly caring, dedicated and experienced breeder is aware that airplane transport imposes a serious health risk to a baby glider's health. Young baby gliders, or "joeys" have perished in route simply because they were shipped alone or with a few companions.
First-time owners often consider whether to purchase two sugar gliders at once, either from their own research or guessing that this animal would be better off living with another companion of it's kind. It is not necessary to purchase two gliders at once, in fact some buyers are encouraged to make a dual purchase by greedy merchants who would rather hide this simple fact from them. The reason why sugar gliders are equipped to survive without a companion is because you will become it's companion upon bringing it into your home. Sugar gliders are very social creatures by nature, co-existing in the wild with groups of up to 15 animals at once. This social quality of their personality and DNA makes them a great pet, allowing them to build a strong bond with their human owners.
Between 8 and 12 weeks of age of a newborn joey's birth is the most ideal time for you to make a purchase. This is due to the natural life cycle which initiates their instinctive need to bond with the rest of the colony after leaving their parent's pouch in the wild. When in captivity and cared for by a breeder, the baby joey emerges from it's parent's pouch and is ready to meet it's new owner to begin the process of bonding as a way of life.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great information on sugar glider care, visit http://thesugarglidersolution.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Right-Way-To-Approach-Sugar-Glider-Sales&id=6556620] The Right Way To Approach Sugar Glider Sales
In purchasing a sugar glider, it is important to weigh your desire to own one with the proper education on how to make a safe and legitimate purchase from a dealer, then understand how to properly care for your glider once you bring it into your home. The first thing you must realize is that the sugar glider is an exotic pet which originates from the Australian wilderness, you will be hard-pressed to find one by walking into most pet stores. Study and educate yourself below about the important health, safety and growth cycle facts of sugar gliders to ensure you make the right decision during your purchase.
Most people consider the internet as their first resource to purchase a sugar glider for a quick and easy transaction. Unfortunately the anonymity of the internet and careless sugar glider merchants can make buying this exotic pet online an unsafe option, although their are many merchants you can find who are caring and reliable. Lack of education and the speed of making a purchase online can lure people into the trap of illegitimate merchants who seek to sell these exotic pets at comparatively reasonable prices. Do not consider websites which look suspicious or seem to run a business which is unacceptable in nature.
Allow me to help you identify the good sugar glider breeder, those who care about the well-being of their gliders and stay away from the bad breeders, those who are only out to make a quick buck at the expense of a glider's safety. Like any area of commerce, there are some merchants who will try to deceive the consumer by exaggerating their sales material and incentives to make the fastest sale possible. One illegitimate sales practice you should always beware of is when the breeder offers to ship your sugar glider to an airport nearest to you. Airplane shipment is not a good way to receive any pet due to travel conditions and stress factors exhibited upon animals during the process. Fortunately, the amount of caring and reliable sugar glider breeders outnumber those who are illegitimate so look forward to meeting a breeder who has you and the glider's best interests in mind. You will realize that the quality of specimen you receive from dedicated breeders are top-notch, they operate a business of breeding gliders which upholds acceptable standards. Safety and health precautions are taken between dedicated and prospective owners to ensure the glider is given to the new owner in optimal condition. The truly caring, dedicated and experienced breeder is aware that airplane transport imposes a serious health risk to a baby glider's health. Young baby gliders, or "joeys" have perished in route simply because they were shipped alone or with a few companions.
First-time owners often consider whether to purchase two sugar gliders at once, either from their own research or guessing that this animal would be better off living with another companion of it's kind. It is not necessary to purchase two gliders at once, in fact some buyers are encouraged to make a dual purchase by greedy merchants who would rather hide this simple fact from them. The reason why sugar gliders are equipped to survive without a companion is because you will become it's companion upon bringing it into your home. Sugar gliders are very social creatures by nature, co-existing in the wild with groups of up to 15 animals at once. This social quality of their personality and DNA makes them a great pet, allowing them to build a strong bond with their human owners.
Between 8 and 12 weeks of age of a newborn joey's birth is the most ideal time for you to make a purchase. This is due to the natural life cycle which initiates their instinctive need to bond with the rest of the colony after leaving their parent's pouch in the wild. When in captivity and cared for by a breeder, the baby joey emerges from it's parent's pouch and is ready to meet it's new owner to begin the process of bonding as a way of life.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great information on sugar glider care, visit http://thesugarglidersolution.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Right-Way-To-Approach-Sugar-Glider-Sales&id=6556620] The Right Way To Approach Sugar Glider Sales
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
The Essential Steps In Going About Sugar Glider Sales
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_Brennen]Mike Brennen
Do not attempt to make a purchase of a sugar glider with a speedy transaction as your main priority. In purchasing one from a merchant, you are bringing a living creature into your life which is tiny and easily affected by inferior methods of transport. There are two types of merchants out there who are willing to sell you a sugar glider: caring ones who have their glider's best interests in mind vs. those who do not care and are willing to sacrifice their glider's well-being for a quick buck. Unfortunately some people get lured into doing business with the careless, illegitimate merchants by turning to the speed of the internet as their first choice in making a purchase. Stay away from websites which do not provide enough information upfront to show they can be trusted. It is best that you purchase your glider in person to ensure it's safety and proper health condition.
Arm yourself with the essential knowledge which will allow you to go about obtaining your sugar glider the right way. Because the sugar glider is an exotic pet from Australia, it must be handled with a level of care by it's merchant which is unique compared to the average pet you are likely to find in most pet stores. You first step in making the right purchase is to realize the difference between this exotic mammal and the common household pet.
Contrary to popular opinion on the behavior of pets, sugar gliders are capable of living in captivity without another one of it's kind as a companion. Some people who purchase a glider feel the need to purchase a second one for the sake of companionship between it's own species. There are merchants who actually encourage this unnecessary method of purchase to their clients just to earn more money per sale. What you must realize is that sugar gliders are very social mammals by nature and have an astonishing ability to bond with other creatures outside it's own species. You will become the glider's new companion upon purchase, instead of bonding with another glider as it would in it's native wilderness.
The method which a sugar glider breeder chooses to transport your glider to you is a big factor in identifying whether they are reputable or not. Unfortunately there are illegitimate breeders who offer to transport their gliders to the nearest airport of the buyer. Airline transportation is hazardous to the health of sugar gliders, in most cases causing long-term complications or even death to those which cannot cope with the stress of travel. There are a number of breeders who will choose this fatal method of transportation regardless because they are more concerned with making a dollar than the risk of fatality. Fortunately the number of caring and dedicated breeders exceeds those who are careless. These great people will insist on making a reasonable local commute to your location so you have the opportunity to observe your glider in person. Once you meet the reputable breeder, you will realize he is trustworthy and it is safe to move forward in making a purchase.
In finding a trustworthy, reputable breeder who follows the best guidelines in caring and transportation of their gliders, plan to make a purchase one when it is between 8 to 12 weeks old. This is an especially important period for new owners, since it marks the natural life cycle when young sugar gliders seek a new companion to bond with. You will become the new companion of your glider as it emerges from it's mother's pouch and comes into your domestic care.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great tips on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-sales/]sugar glider sales, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com]http://thesugarglidersolution.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Essential-Steps-In-Going-About-Sugar-Glider-Sales&id=6579700] The Essential Steps In Going About Sugar Glider Sales
Do not attempt to make a purchase of a sugar glider with a speedy transaction as your main priority. In purchasing one from a merchant, you are bringing a living creature into your life which is tiny and easily affected by inferior methods of transport. There are two types of merchants out there who are willing to sell you a sugar glider: caring ones who have their glider's best interests in mind vs. those who do not care and are willing to sacrifice their glider's well-being for a quick buck. Unfortunately some people get lured into doing business with the careless, illegitimate merchants by turning to the speed of the internet as their first choice in making a purchase. Stay away from websites which do not provide enough information upfront to show they can be trusted. It is best that you purchase your glider in person to ensure it's safety and proper health condition.
Arm yourself with the essential knowledge which will allow you to go about obtaining your sugar glider the right way. Because the sugar glider is an exotic pet from Australia, it must be handled with a level of care by it's merchant which is unique compared to the average pet you are likely to find in most pet stores. You first step in making the right purchase is to realize the difference between this exotic mammal and the common household pet.
Contrary to popular opinion on the behavior of pets, sugar gliders are capable of living in captivity without another one of it's kind as a companion. Some people who purchase a glider feel the need to purchase a second one for the sake of companionship between it's own species. There are merchants who actually encourage this unnecessary method of purchase to their clients just to earn more money per sale. What you must realize is that sugar gliders are very social mammals by nature and have an astonishing ability to bond with other creatures outside it's own species. You will become the glider's new companion upon purchase, instead of bonding with another glider as it would in it's native wilderness.
The method which a sugar glider breeder chooses to transport your glider to you is a big factor in identifying whether they are reputable or not. Unfortunately there are illegitimate breeders who offer to transport their gliders to the nearest airport of the buyer. Airline transportation is hazardous to the health of sugar gliders, in most cases causing long-term complications or even death to those which cannot cope with the stress of travel. There are a number of breeders who will choose this fatal method of transportation regardless because they are more concerned with making a dollar than the risk of fatality. Fortunately the number of caring and dedicated breeders exceeds those who are careless. These great people will insist on making a reasonable local commute to your location so you have the opportunity to observe your glider in person. Once you meet the reputable breeder, you will realize he is trustworthy and it is safe to move forward in making a purchase.
In finding a trustworthy, reputable breeder who follows the best guidelines in caring and transportation of their gliders, plan to make a purchase one when it is between 8 to 12 weeks old. This is an especially important period for new owners, since it marks the natural life cycle when young sugar gliders seek a new companion to bond with. You will become the new companion of your glider as it emerges from it's mother's pouch and comes into your domestic care.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great tips on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-sales/]sugar glider sales, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com]http://thesugarglidersolution.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Essential-Steps-In-Going-About-Sugar-Glider-Sales&id=6579700] The Essential Steps In Going About Sugar Glider Sales
Monday, December 5, 2011
Breeding Your Sugar Glider
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Mike_Brennen]Mike Brennen
Your first step as a committed breeder is to understand the correct way to care for a sugar glider mother and her litter so that it leads to healthy, long-living offspring. You should also have a basic knowledge of it's origins, natural instincts, living requirements and behavior. The sugar glider is a species of mammal which originates from Australia, a descendant of the kangaroo and koala. these tiny animals have gained popularity in the United States as a domestic pet and sparked a trend of new breeders.
Sugar gliders are naturally playful animals. Their name indicates their purpose as mammals who are known for jumping and flying, thus the name "glider". for this reason it is mandatory that you choose a cage of specific dimensions to allow enough space for your glider to jump and glide. At minimum, a cage measuring 18 by 36 inches is needed to house a sugar glider. Pick an assortment of toys and climbing devices to decorate the cage interior and provide entertainment as your glider plays inside. When rest time comes, have a comfortable nesting box prepared for your glider to allow for adequate sleep, nesting and reproduction. The only thing you will need to replacement inside the cage is the nesting box. As gliders sometimes decide to mark outside their box with urine, it will need to be replaced multiple times during it's life. Although multiple replacements are sometimes necessary, consider the nesting box a central piece of your glider's life for the important purpose it serves in providing a space for nesting, rest and most importantly, reproduction.
The natural mating and reproduction process between male and female sugar gliders is seldom, only mating once or twice a year. In captivity however, two sugar gliders are known to mate and reproduce at a more consistent rate. As the mother glider carries her fetus for 15 to 17 days, the breeder must supply the mother glider with a significant amount of protein to insure her and the baby remain healthy. The period in which the baby sugar glider fetus grows inside their mother requires increased nutritional needs to insure a strong mother who will eventually deliver a healthy newborn. Upon birth, baby joey gliders, or "joeys" will appear hairless and blind, about one or two babies in a single litter. This fragile state at birth will require baby joeys to enter back into their mother's pouch for protection and nursing to supplement their growth from newborn to independent youngsters.
The development process of the baby joey glider inside it's mother's pouch is the final stage between it coming into your care once it is fully weaned away from it's mother. At four months of age, baby gliders become fully matured and ready to live independent of their parents, a period which is ideal for it to be placed within the presence of it's future owner. The truth is, a young glider's eyes aren't fully opened until 12 to 14 days of emergence from it's mother's pouch. Once the mother allows it's young to be exposed to human contact and bonding upon leaving the pouch, this is the best time for the young, developed glider to begin bonding with a human owner. The crucial period in choosing your sugar glider as it becomes independent from it's mother will insure you form a proper bond with it, making the young glider an ideal pet.
As long as you follow the necessary steps in breeding your sugar glider through it's natural developmental process through reproduction, birth, nutrition and growth it will prove to be a rewarding process of nurturing life to be proud of.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great tips on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeding/]sugar glider breeding, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeding/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Breeding-Your-Sugar-Glider&id=6556669] Breeding Your Sugar Glider
Your first step as a committed breeder is to understand the correct way to care for a sugar glider mother and her litter so that it leads to healthy, long-living offspring. You should also have a basic knowledge of it's origins, natural instincts, living requirements and behavior. The sugar glider is a species of mammal which originates from Australia, a descendant of the kangaroo and koala. these tiny animals have gained popularity in the United States as a domestic pet and sparked a trend of new breeders.
Sugar gliders are naturally playful animals. Their name indicates their purpose as mammals who are known for jumping and flying, thus the name "glider". for this reason it is mandatory that you choose a cage of specific dimensions to allow enough space for your glider to jump and glide. At minimum, a cage measuring 18 by 36 inches is needed to house a sugar glider. Pick an assortment of toys and climbing devices to decorate the cage interior and provide entertainment as your glider plays inside. When rest time comes, have a comfortable nesting box prepared for your glider to allow for adequate sleep, nesting and reproduction. The only thing you will need to replacement inside the cage is the nesting box. As gliders sometimes decide to mark outside their box with urine, it will need to be replaced multiple times during it's life. Although multiple replacements are sometimes necessary, consider the nesting box a central piece of your glider's life for the important purpose it serves in providing a space for nesting, rest and most importantly, reproduction.
The natural mating and reproduction process between male and female sugar gliders is seldom, only mating once or twice a year. In captivity however, two sugar gliders are known to mate and reproduce at a more consistent rate. As the mother glider carries her fetus for 15 to 17 days, the breeder must supply the mother glider with a significant amount of protein to insure her and the baby remain healthy. The period in which the baby sugar glider fetus grows inside their mother requires increased nutritional needs to insure a strong mother who will eventually deliver a healthy newborn. Upon birth, baby joey gliders, or "joeys" will appear hairless and blind, about one or two babies in a single litter. This fragile state at birth will require baby joeys to enter back into their mother's pouch for protection and nursing to supplement their growth from newborn to independent youngsters.
The development process of the baby joey glider inside it's mother's pouch is the final stage between it coming into your care once it is fully weaned away from it's mother. At four months of age, baby gliders become fully matured and ready to live independent of their parents, a period which is ideal for it to be placed within the presence of it's future owner. The truth is, a young glider's eyes aren't fully opened until 12 to 14 days of emergence from it's mother's pouch. Once the mother allows it's young to be exposed to human contact and bonding upon leaving the pouch, this is the best time for the young, developed glider to begin bonding with a human owner. The crucial period in choosing your sugar glider as it becomes independent from it's mother will insure you form a proper bond with it, making the young glider an ideal pet.
As long as you follow the necessary steps in breeding your sugar glider through it's natural developmental process through reproduction, birth, nutrition and growth it will prove to be a rewarding process of nurturing life to be proud of.
Mike Brennen is a sugar glider expert. For more great tips on [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeding/]sugar glider breeding, visit [http://thesugarglidersolution.com/]http://thesugarglidersolution.com/sugar-glider-breeding/.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Breeding-Your-Sugar-Glider&id=6556669] Breeding Your Sugar Glider
Saturday, December 3, 2011
The Three Most Common Errors People Make When Buying A Chinchilla
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jack_Sterling]Jack Sterling
You will need to understand exactly what to do and the way to get it done. Understanding the details of the simplest way to really do it is very important too. But that's inadequate by itself; it does not end there. You might also need to really determine what NOT to do, exactly what errors to circumvent. The easiest method to accomplish that is to locate what mistakes others have made and make sure to prevent them.
That should also apply for getting a chinchilla. Lots of people stay away from the errors and have great results. Ideally you'll want to be one of these people. Revealed here below are the three most typical errors that folks make with buying a chinchilla.
First of all. Don't buy the most adorable looking chinchilla in the bunch. If the animal seems or acts scared, it might be because it hasn't been dealt with the right way by the pet owners or the pet shop. You'll find this crucial because a chinchilla that has not been correctly dealt with during its earlier stages carries a big possibility of remaining that way all through its life. It is possible nevertheless to "reprogram" it, if you're patient with the animal.. In order to avert this issue you should browse around for your chinchilla with a great portion of curiosity, one that isn't reluctant to approach you..
Next, be aware of questionable pet stores and chinchilla breeders. Getting this correct is very important because you could end up with a pet that hasn't been handled properly. What you should do then is have a look at the pet store or chinchilla breeder you're showing an interest in buying from. This way you will have a far better chance of purchasing a healthy and amazing chinchilla.
And lastly, you should definitely have the correct equipment for your chinchilla before buying it. Purchasing a chinchilla without having a cage for it to live in, or any food to consume is really a BAD idea. This issue occurs whenever some people gets too excited about the possibilities of having a chinchilla, so they drive directly to the pet store and obtain one. The ultimate way to steer clear of that is through preparation. You're likely to be tempted to go right to the pet shop and pick up a chinchilla, however, not buying the most basic products when it arrives at your house could potentially cause stress to the small animal..
You will have to cautiously stay away from these sorts of errors with buying a chinchilla. Instead, stick to the recommendations above with regard to doing it properly. Avoiding these types of mistakes isn't difficult when you understand to watch out for them!
Find out how you can make sure you do the correct things when buying a chinchilla by heading to this web site about chinchillas, filled with chinchilla facts.
You can find more tips on [http://allchinchillafacts.com]buying a chinchilla and other chinchilla information at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Three-Most-Common-Errors-People-Make-When-Buying-A-Chinchilla&id=6598314] The Three Most Common Errors People Make When Buying A Chinchilla
You will need to understand exactly what to do and the way to get it done. Understanding the details of the simplest way to really do it is very important too. But that's inadequate by itself; it does not end there. You might also need to really determine what NOT to do, exactly what errors to circumvent. The easiest method to accomplish that is to locate what mistakes others have made and make sure to prevent them.
That should also apply for getting a chinchilla. Lots of people stay away from the errors and have great results. Ideally you'll want to be one of these people. Revealed here below are the three most typical errors that folks make with buying a chinchilla.
First of all. Don't buy the most adorable looking chinchilla in the bunch. If the animal seems or acts scared, it might be because it hasn't been dealt with the right way by the pet owners or the pet shop. You'll find this crucial because a chinchilla that has not been correctly dealt with during its earlier stages carries a big possibility of remaining that way all through its life. It is possible nevertheless to "reprogram" it, if you're patient with the animal.. In order to avert this issue you should browse around for your chinchilla with a great portion of curiosity, one that isn't reluctant to approach you..
Next, be aware of questionable pet stores and chinchilla breeders. Getting this correct is very important because you could end up with a pet that hasn't been handled properly. What you should do then is have a look at the pet store or chinchilla breeder you're showing an interest in buying from. This way you will have a far better chance of purchasing a healthy and amazing chinchilla.
And lastly, you should definitely have the correct equipment for your chinchilla before buying it. Purchasing a chinchilla without having a cage for it to live in, or any food to consume is really a BAD idea. This issue occurs whenever some people gets too excited about the possibilities of having a chinchilla, so they drive directly to the pet store and obtain one. The ultimate way to steer clear of that is through preparation. You're likely to be tempted to go right to the pet shop and pick up a chinchilla, however, not buying the most basic products when it arrives at your house could potentially cause stress to the small animal..
You will have to cautiously stay away from these sorts of errors with buying a chinchilla. Instead, stick to the recommendations above with regard to doing it properly. Avoiding these types of mistakes isn't difficult when you understand to watch out for them!
Find out how you can make sure you do the correct things when buying a chinchilla by heading to this web site about chinchillas, filled with chinchilla facts.
You can find more tips on [http://allchinchillafacts.com]buying a chinchilla and other chinchilla information at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Three-Most-Common-Errors-People-Make-When-Buying-A-Chinchilla&id=6598314] The Three Most Common Errors People Make When Buying A Chinchilla
Thursday, December 1, 2011
How to Choose the Right Cage for Your Sugar Glider
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Amy_Louise_Richards]Amy Louise Richards
Apart from the sugar glider's diet, the cage is yet another consideration a pet owner should look into carefully. Though they are considered exotic and delicate to look at, they are, in fact, easy to take care of and don't necessarily require extensive maintenance.
You might not see a lot of sugar glider cages in your local pet shops. This is because the popularity of sugar gliders as pets hasn't reached its threshold, which is why a lot of people still identify them as rodents, not marsupials.
Sugar gliders are social animals. Thus, putting them into a large cage should be avoided as it hinders the bonding process. Young babies must be taught to bond with the other ones. Upon reaching maturity (approximately between 7 and 10 months old), you can move them to a much larger case to provide a sufficient playground for the growing community.
If you want to save money, pick a sturdy and durable cage that will last for a lifetime. A typical sugar glider may live up 12 years or more. Use this info as a heads-up.
Gliding is one of the many things these great pets are built to do. They are also good at jumping and climbing and they do these activities all the time. Having said that, the cage should have an ample space to make them happy. It should be wide and tall enough having at least 36 inches in height and 24 inches width. Again, if you can get a cage with a much bigger space, the better.
You have two options at your disposal: the metal and wire cages. These two types are proven to give the right ventilation and protection for them. Since your pets are too small and may easily slip off their cage, buy those with narrow spaces particularly the bottom bars. Anything wider than half of an inch is a no-no to protect the glider's minute feet.
Seeing all the jumping and running inside the cage, you might be tempted to overcrowd it with playing toys, levels and whatnot. Avoid this but instead get a good nesting box and they will thank you for it. Sugar gliders love to sleep and providing them with a cozy space will always be appreciated.
You can buy or make your own nesting box. Use only those with semi-porous materials to allow heat to dissipate and avert infections. Like many animals, sugar gliders leave "marks" by urinating, which could become a breeding ground when absorbent materials are used.
One more thing; keep the cage away from direct sunlight. Put the cage in a dry and warm area of your home. Sudden temperature change brings sickness, therefore windows and entrances aren't the best places for them. If you put them indoors, 70 degrees is the appropriate temperature.
Amy Richards has been caring for these wonderful pets for many years and is a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/]Sugar Glider Care expert. For more information on a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/cage-for-sugar-glider/]cage for your sugar glider please visit her website via this link.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Right-Cage-for-Your-Sugar-Glider&id=6598118] How to Choose the Right Cage for Your Sugar Glider
Apart from the sugar glider's diet, the cage is yet another consideration a pet owner should look into carefully. Though they are considered exotic and delicate to look at, they are, in fact, easy to take care of and don't necessarily require extensive maintenance.
You might not see a lot of sugar glider cages in your local pet shops. This is because the popularity of sugar gliders as pets hasn't reached its threshold, which is why a lot of people still identify them as rodents, not marsupials.
Sugar gliders are social animals. Thus, putting them into a large cage should be avoided as it hinders the bonding process. Young babies must be taught to bond with the other ones. Upon reaching maturity (approximately between 7 and 10 months old), you can move them to a much larger case to provide a sufficient playground for the growing community.
If you want to save money, pick a sturdy and durable cage that will last for a lifetime. A typical sugar glider may live up 12 years or more. Use this info as a heads-up.
Gliding is one of the many things these great pets are built to do. They are also good at jumping and climbing and they do these activities all the time. Having said that, the cage should have an ample space to make them happy. It should be wide and tall enough having at least 36 inches in height and 24 inches width. Again, if you can get a cage with a much bigger space, the better.
You have two options at your disposal: the metal and wire cages. These two types are proven to give the right ventilation and protection for them. Since your pets are too small and may easily slip off their cage, buy those with narrow spaces particularly the bottom bars. Anything wider than half of an inch is a no-no to protect the glider's minute feet.
Seeing all the jumping and running inside the cage, you might be tempted to overcrowd it with playing toys, levels and whatnot. Avoid this but instead get a good nesting box and they will thank you for it. Sugar gliders love to sleep and providing them with a cozy space will always be appreciated.
You can buy or make your own nesting box. Use only those with semi-porous materials to allow heat to dissipate and avert infections. Like many animals, sugar gliders leave "marks" by urinating, which could become a breeding ground when absorbent materials are used.
One more thing; keep the cage away from direct sunlight. Put the cage in a dry and warm area of your home. Sudden temperature change brings sickness, therefore windows and entrances aren't the best places for them. If you put them indoors, 70 degrees is the appropriate temperature.
Amy Richards has been caring for these wonderful pets for many years and is a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/]Sugar Glider Care expert. For more information on a [http://www.sugargliderpetshop.org/cage-for-sugar-glider/]cage for your sugar glider please visit her website via this link.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Right-Cage-for-Your-Sugar-Glider&id=6598118] How to Choose the Right Cage for Your Sugar Glider
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Why Ferrets Steal Things
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gwen_Nicodemus]Gwen Nicodemus
The word ferret has its origins in Latin and translates to little thief. With that tidbit of knowledge, it shouldn't surprise you that ferrets like to steal things and hoard them.
My ferrets take anything they can drag. I've seen my little, one pound girl try to carry off the dog's sterilized bone; the bone weighs more than she does. (The only reason she didn't succeed is that the dog saw her dragging the bone across the room and intervened.) They have appropriated my shoes, my wrist brace, and stuffed toys. They have snatched bookmarks, balls, and food dishes. They have pilfered computer mice, tissues, and socks. They have removed apples, potatoes, and staple removers. If they can pirate an item, they will.
So, after my ferrets acquire an object of desire, they hoard it. Just about every stolen thing ends up in the same place. After I clean, they might relocate their stash, but there's usually only one cache at a time. I've found the cache under their cage. One time the stash was behind the television and one time they actually put everything inside one of my husband's speakers. Currently, my babies like to relocate objects to inside their Tower of Fun, a tube that twists up and down. The fuzzies like to slide down the slopes of the Tower of Fun, so it's a little strange that they block their fun sliding route with toys. Yet, they do.
Why?
Since I don't speak ferret, and my ferrets don't speak human, I can only guess based on their natural behaviors in the wild. Polecats (who our domesticated ferrets have been domesticated from) are carnivores. They're hunters. They kill things smaller than themselves (usually smaller, but I've seen videos of ferrets killing things larger than they are). So, a ferret kills a mouse and eats it. When it's done, it will hide the leftovers. If a ferret kills an animal that is too big to eat in one sitting, the ferret will stash the corpse to finish later. And, in all of these instances, ferrets are trying to prevent other animals from gaining their spoils.
I think that's probably the best explanation for why ferrets steal, but I have one other thought. Frequently, I find ferrets asleep amidst their stolen treasures. Usually, when they sleep in their cache, the items are soft and squishy, like small stuffed toys and other fluffy things. So, my second hypothesis is that ferrets like to build cozy beds.
Gwen Nicodemus is a freelance engineer/writer and homeschooling mom who loves ferrets and dogs. Gwen rescues ferrets and trains Guide Dog Puppies. Visit her website, [http://notionnexus.com/index.php/critters]Notion Nexus, for ferret information, status on her current Guide Dog Puppy, and a free coloring book.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Why-Ferrets-Steal-Things&id=6605698] Why Ferrets Steal Things
The word ferret has its origins in Latin and translates to little thief. With that tidbit of knowledge, it shouldn't surprise you that ferrets like to steal things and hoard them.
My ferrets take anything they can drag. I've seen my little, one pound girl try to carry off the dog's sterilized bone; the bone weighs more than she does. (The only reason she didn't succeed is that the dog saw her dragging the bone across the room and intervened.) They have appropriated my shoes, my wrist brace, and stuffed toys. They have snatched bookmarks, balls, and food dishes. They have pilfered computer mice, tissues, and socks. They have removed apples, potatoes, and staple removers. If they can pirate an item, they will.
So, after my ferrets acquire an object of desire, they hoard it. Just about every stolen thing ends up in the same place. After I clean, they might relocate their stash, but there's usually only one cache at a time. I've found the cache under their cage. One time the stash was behind the television and one time they actually put everything inside one of my husband's speakers. Currently, my babies like to relocate objects to inside their Tower of Fun, a tube that twists up and down. The fuzzies like to slide down the slopes of the Tower of Fun, so it's a little strange that they block their fun sliding route with toys. Yet, they do.
Why?
Since I don't speak ferret, and my ferrets don't speak human, I can only guess based on their natural behaviors in the wild. Polecats (who our domesticated ferrets have been domesticated from) are carnivores. They're hunters. They kill things smaller than themselves (usually smaller, but I've seen videos of ferrets killing things larger than they are). So, a ferret kills a mouse and eats it. When it's done, it will hide the leftovers. If a ferret kills an animal that is too big to eat in one sitting, the ferret will stash the corpse to finish later. And, in all of these instances, ferrets are trying to prevent other animals from gaining their spoils.
I think that's probably the best explanation for why ferrets steal, but I have one other thought. Frequently, I find ferrets asleep amidst their stolen treasures. Usually, when they sleep in their cache, the items are soft and squishy, like small stuffed toys and other fluffy things. So, my second hypothesis is that ferrets like to build cozy beds.
Gwen Nicodemus is a freelance engineer/writer and homeschooling mom who loves ferrets and dogs. Gwen rescues ferrets and trains Guide Dog Puppies. Visit her website, [http://notionnexus.com/index.php/critters]Notion Nexus, for ferret information, status on her current Guide Dog Puppy, and a free coloring book.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Why-Ferrets-Steal-Things&id=6605698] Why Ferrets Steal Things
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Homemade Meals for Sugar Gliders
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Are you an advocate of homemade meals for pets? Don't get me wrong - I have immense respect for pet owners who choose to make homemade meals because they want their pets to receive only the freshest and most nutritious food available.
It may appear that I was discounting homemade meals at the beginning of this article, but in reality, I have only shown some negative light on homemade diets that over-emphasize empty calories.
There are some homemade diets for sugar gliders that you can try if you really want to give your new pets something that has been lovingly created at home.
General instructions for the recipes:
1.Combine all of the ingredients by using a regular blender or food processor.
2.After blending, pour contents into an ice-cube tray. Fill each space halfway only. During mealtime, each sugar glider should receive an equivalent of just one tablespoon of food (that's why each space in the ice tray should only be filled halfway).
3.Half teaspoon of treats, veggies, and fruits can also be given after the main meal has been finished unless the diet utilizes fresh fruit & vegetables already.
Diet # 1: Wheat and Chicken Diet
The composition of the Wheat & Chicken Diet is as follows:
- Quarter cup of apple juice (canned, boxed or fresh)
- Half cup of honey (use processed honey, not raw honey!)
- One whole egg (boil the egg until it becomes hard-boiled and remove the shell)
- Four ounces of baby yogurt juice
- One teaspoon of regular calcium-based supplement
- Two teaspoons of calcium-based supplement with added vitamin D3 (the second supplementation should not contain any phosphorous)
- Two and a half ounces of baby food (chicken flavor)
- Quarter cup of wheat germ
- Half cup of oatmeal (if oatmeal is not available you can use whole-grain cereal instead)
Diet # 2: Basic Leadbeater's Diet
The composition of the Basic Leadbeater's Diet is as follows:
- 150 milliliters of water (use slightly warm water when preparing this food)
- 150 milliliters of commercial honey
- 1 whole egg (boil the egg and remove the shell)
- 5 teaspoons of baby cereal (Choose the variant that is rich in protein. The cereal will provide most of the protein in this diet)
- 1 to 2 teaspoons of a calcium-based mineral supplement
Note:
Never mix the recipe with chocolates or table sugar because they contain chemical compounds that can easily build up in a sugar glider's system to cause toxicity.
My name is Gavin Mathews and I've been a Sugar Glider Enthusiast due to which, I've gained a good amount of knowledge about Sugar Gliders. As a Glider enthusiast, it is my goal to see that all pet Gliders are properly cared for, so I'd like to share my knowledge with you.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/breeding-your-sugar-glider/]Breeding Your Sugar Glider
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Homemade-Meals-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6619467] Homemade Meals for Sugar Gliders
Are you an advocate of homemade meals for pets? Don't get me wrong - I have immense respect for pet owners who choose to make homemade meals because they want their pets to receive only the freshest and most nutritious food available.
It may appear that I was discounting homemade meals at the beginning of this article, but in reality, I have only shown some negative light on homemade diets that over-emphasize empty calories.
There are some homemade diets for sugar gliders that you can try if you really want to give your new pets something that has been lovingly created at home.
General instructions for the recipes:
1.Combine all of the ingredients by using a regular blender or food processor.
2.After blending, pour contents into an ice-cube tray. Fill each space halfway only. During mealtime, each sugar glider should receive an equivalent of just one tablespoon of food (that's why each space in the ice tray should only be filled halfway).
3.Half teaspoon of treats, veggies, and fruits can also be given after the main meal has been finished unless the diet utilizes fresh fruit & vegetables already.
Diet # 1: Wheat and Chicken Diet
The composition of the Wheat & Chicken Diet is as follows:
- Quarter cup of apple juice (canned, boxed or fresh)
- Half cup of honey (use processed honey, not raw honey!)
- One whole egg (boil the egg until it becomes hard-boiled and remove the shell)
- Four ounces of baby yogurt juice
- One teaspoon of regular calcium-based supplement
- Two teaspoons of calcium-based supplement with added vitamin D3 (the second supplementation should not contain any phosphorous)
- Two and a half ounces of baby food (chicken flavor)
- Quarter cup of wheat germ
- Half cup of oatmeal (if oatmeal is not available you can use whole-grain cereal instead)
Diet # 2: Basic Leadbeater's Diet
The composition of the Basic Leadbeater's Diet is as follows:
- 150 milliliters of water (use slightly warm water when preparing this food)
- 150 milliliters of commercial honey
- 1 whole egg (boil the egg and remove the shell)
- 5 teaspoons of baby cereal (Choose the variant that is rich in protein. The cereal will provide most of the protein in this diet)
- 1 to 2 teaspoons of a calcium-based mineral supplement
Note:
Never mix the recipe with chocolates or table sugar because they contain chemical compounds that can easily build up in a sugar glider's system to cause toxicity.
My name is Gavin Mathews and I've been a Sugar Glider Enthusiast due to which, I've gained a good amount of knowledge about Sugar Gliders. As a Glider enthusiast, it is my goal to see that all pet Gliders are properly cared for, so I'd like to share my knowledge with you.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/breeding-your-sugar-glider/]Breeding Your Sugar Glider
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Homemade-Meals-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6619467] Homemade Meals for Sugar Gliders
Friday, November 25, 2011
Choosing A Cage for Sugar Gliders
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=CaSandra_Poulos]CaSandra Poulos
Congratulations on being a proud owner of a sugar glider! You have no idea how lucky you are to have a lovable new pet. You have probably already done some research on how to take good care of your furry little friend and you most likely already know the facts about sugar gliders being nocturnal possums.
Now the next most important thing to consider is the cage for your sugar gliders. They are very social creatures and they love to play and glide around. A cage for them must be comfortable, wide, and tall enough for them to fully enjoy their new home with you.
When it comes to a cage for your gliders, a cage of 24 by 24 inches is the minimum necessary for them to be comfortable, and it has to be at least 36 inches in height too, if you have a pair of gliders. Height is also a very important factor to consider. You must also bear in mind that the cage wire must not exceed � inch in width, otherwise, your glider can fall in between the wires. The cage must also be filled with toys and must have a horizontal cage bar, an exercise wheel and most importantly, a nesting box must be present, too.
When setting up your cage for your new little friend, you must have the thought "he needs to feel at home" in mind. It is so easy to make a cage for your sugar glider and it will only take 20 to 30 minutes of your time to prepare its home. You can buy your own cage or you can make it from scratch as long as you follow the 24 x 24 inch rule. Also make sure that the door of the cage is big enough to fit the nesting box through. Set up the cage in a quiet area of your home, and make sure it's located on a tabletop.
Your sugar gliders are nocturnal creatures, so yes they are awake during the night. And during the day, they sleep. Make sure they are not bothered by noise whenever they are snoring the whole day away. Your cage for your sugar gliders must also be kept at 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight.
Attach a clip on dish for its food and water. You can use a water bottle but just provide a dish of water until your glider is capable enough to use the bottle. As for the nest box, it can be made either of wood, plastic or wicker. You can even use a cloth pouch if you like. After all, gliders love their mama's pouch!
Also provide a bunch of fresh branches so your glider can climb on them. Just stay clear from cedar and pine. Lastly, don't forget the toys because your glider would surely love to be around toys in their home too. With a little attention and love you can make the perfect hone for your new family member!
CaSandra Poulos is an avid lover of sugar gliders offers a free "10 Things You Have To Know About Sugar Gliders" email mini-course at her [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/]sugar gliders website which includes information on finding great [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/sugar_glider_breeders/]sugar glider breeders.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Choosing-A-Cage-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6616422] Choosing A Cage for Sugar Gliders
Congratulations on being a proud owner of a sugar glider! You have no idea how lucky you are to have a lovable new pet. You have probably already done some research on how to take good care of your furry little friend and you most likely already know the facts about sugar gliders being nocturnal possums.
Now the next most important thing to consider is the cage for your sugar gliders. They are very social creatures and they love to play and glide around. A cage for them must be comfortable, wide, and tall enough for them to fully enjoy their new home with you.
When it comes to a cage for your gliders, a cage of 24 by 24 inches is the minimum necessary for them to be comfortable, and it has to be at least 36 inches in height too, if you have a pair of gliders. Height is also a very important factor to consider. You must also bear in mind that the cage wire must not exceed � inch in width, otherwise, your glider can fall in between the wires. The cage must also be filled with toys and must have a horizontal cage bar, an exercise wheel and most importantly, a nesting box must be present, too.
When setting up your cage for your new little friend, you must have the thought "he needs to feel at home" in mind. It is so easy to make a cage for your sugar glider and it will only take 20 to 30 minutes of your time to prepare its home. You can buy your own cage or you can make it from scratch as long as you follow the 24 x 24 inch rule. Also make sure that the door of the cage is big enough to fit the nesting box through. Set up the cage in a quiet area of your home, and make sure it's located on a tabletop.
Your sugar gliders are nocturnal creatures, so yes they are awake during the night. And during the day, they sleep. Make sure they are not bothered by noise whenever they are snoring the whole day away. Your cage for your sugar gliders must also be kept at 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight.
Attach a clip on dish for its food and water. You can use a water bottle but just provide a dish of water until your glider is capable enough to use the bottle. As for the nest box, it can be made either of wood, plastic or wicker. You can even use a cloth pouch if you like. After all, gliders love their mama's pouch!
Also provide a bunch of fresh branches so your glider can climb on them. Just stay clear from cedar and pine. Lastly, don't forget the toys because your glider would surely love to be around toys in their home too. With a little attention and love you can make the perfect hone for your new family member!
CaSandra Poulos is an avid lover of sugar gliders offers a free "10 Things You Have To Know About Sugar Gliders" email mini-course at her [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/]sugar gliders website which includes information on finding great [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/sugar_glider_breeders/]sugar glider breeders.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Choosing-A-Cage-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6616422] Choosing A Cage for Sugar Gliders
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
General Guide to Sugar Glider Physiology, Behavior, and Interaction
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
The following notes cover essential points about sugar glider physiology and basic behavior patterns. Use this information to better understand why your sugar glider (SG) is behaving in a particular manner.
1. Information about the group or colony is passed around through scents. If you introduce a new sugar glider to an existing colony, it will most likely be scented by the dominant sugar glider. Either this happens, or a fight will ensue.
2. Only male suggies have scenting glands on their faces. This makes it easy to differentiate males from females. Male glider bears are keener to mark their territories than females.
3. A sugar bear that has been replaced by a more dominant member of the colony can become depressed and may begin to exhibit signs of depression.
The behavior of other sugar bears toward particular gliders in a group also has a direct bearing on how a suggie will behave in the long-term. For example, if a sugar bear is regularly bullied by older and stronger gliders, the weaker sugar bear may become depressed or may exhibit excessive aggression.
4. Fights that ensue because a new suggie has been introduced to an existing group should be prevented because adult sugar bears have been known to fight 'intruders' to the death. At the first sign of aggression, remove the newcomer and transfer the new sugar bear to a separate cage.
5. The dominant male of a group should not be removed because this will cause stress to the entire group. Stress can eventually lead to extreme symptoms like self-mutilation.
Some pet owners remove the dominant male to facilitate the entry of a new SG. This approach may or may not work, because the colony system of honey gliders is so important that other members of the group become physiologically weakened when a dominant member is forcibly removed from the group.
6. Rubbing a piece of fabric to a newcomer's body would be a better approach when introducing new gliders to an existing group. Let the old gliders bond with the smell before showing the existing group their new member. This way, the entry of the new member will have less of a negative impact on the existing group.
7. New gliders should be placed in a starter's cage for at least 21 days before being introduced to the existing colony or group. This is done to reduce the chances of spreading infection or disease.
8. If a new SG has been attacked or has not been integrated through general scenting, the sugar glider must be taken out and placed in a separate cage once again. Any attempts to re-integrate the new honey glider should be done after one or two weeks.
9. Honey bears are naturally active at night because this marsupial species is nocturnal. In the wild, honey bears hunt at night as well.
10. Behavior synchronization is sometimes observed in small groups of sugar bears. If one glider becomes alarmed, it is possible that the others will become alarmed as well.
11. When temperatures drop, a colony of honey bears will group closely together to raise or maintain their body temperatures.
12. The gestation period of sugar bear is only fifteen to seventeen days.
13. A sugar glider can reproduce any time of the year.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?General-Guide-to-Sugar-Glider-Physiology,-Behavior,-and-Interaction&id=6616473] General Guide to Sugar Glider Physiology, Behavior, and Interaction
The following notes cover essential points about sugar glider physiology and basic behavior patterns. Use this information to better understand why your sugar glider (SG) is behaving in a particular manner.
1. Information about the group or colony is passed around through scents. If you introduce a new sugar glider to an existing colony, it will most likely be scented by the dominant sugar glider. Either this happens, or a fight will ensue.
2. Only male suggies have scenting glands on their faces. This makes it easy to differentiate males from females. Male glider bears are keener to mark their territories than females.
3. A sugar bear that has been replaced by a more dominant member of the colony can become depressed and may begin to exhibit signs of depression.
The behavior of other sugar bears toward particular gliders in a group also has a direct bearing on how a suggie will behave in the long-term. For example, if a sugar bear is regularly bullied by older and stronger gliders, the weaker sugar bear may become depressed or may exhibit excessive aggression.
4. Fights that ensue because a new suggie has been introduced to an existing group should be prevented because adult sugar bears have been known to fight 'intruders' to the death. At the first sign of aggression, remove the newcomer and transfer the new sugar bear to a separate cage.
5. The dominant male of a group should not be removed because this will cause stress to the entire group. Stress can eventually lead to extreme symptoms like self-mutilation.
Some pet owners remove the dominant male to facilitate the entry of a new SG. This approach may or may not work, because the colony system of honey gliders is so important that other members of the group become physiologically weakened when a dominant member is forcibly removed from the group.
6. Rubbing a piece of fabric to a newcomer's body would be a better approach when introducing new gliders to an existing group. Let the old gliders bond with the smell before showing the existing group their new member. This way, the entry of the new member will have less of a negative impact on the existing group.
7. New gliders should be placed in a starter's cage for at least 21 days before being introduced to the existing colony or group. This is done to reduce the chances of spreading infection or disease.
8. If a new SG has been attacked or has not been integrated through general scenting, the sugar glider must be taken out and placed in a separate cage once again. Any attempts to re-integrate the new honey glider should be done after one or two weeks.
9. Honey bears are naturally active at night because this marsupial species is nocturnal. In the wild, honey bears hunt at night as well.
10. Behavior synchronization is sometimes observed in small groups of sugar bears. If one glider becomes alarmed, it is possible that the others will become alarmed as well.
11. When temperatures drop, a colony of honey bears will group closely together to raise or maintain their body temperatures.
12. The gestation period of sugar bear is only fifteen to seventeen days.
13. A sugar glider can reproduce any time of the year.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?General-Guide-to-Sugar-Glider-Physiology,-Behavior,-and-Interaction&id=6616473] General Guide to Sugar Glider Physiology, Behavior, and Interaction
Monday, November 21, 2011
The Ideal Food Ratio
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
What kind of diet ratio is ideal for sugar gliders (SG) in captivity? Based on current trends in veterinary medicine, exotic pet veterinarians nowadays are leaning toward the ratio of 75:25.
Seventy-five percent of a SG's diet should be composed of commercial glider pellets, while the remaining twenty-five percent should be composed of fresh food such as vegetables and fruits and live/frozen treats such as mealworms and insects.
This ratio may cause some confusion since many pet owners state on online message boards that fresh, live, or frozen food should comprise as much as fifty percent of a sugar glider's diet.
Whatever hype you hear or read about fresh food, don't fall into the trap of buying expensive exotic pet food just because people are saying it's the best for sugar gliders.
As we mentioned earlier, a balanced diet can be given to pet sugar bears for $10 to $15 a month only. Remember: sugar gliders only weigh a few ounces at adulthood, and they do not need to eat so much food in captivity.
Many people ask me if variety is good for Honey gliders. Well, variety can add a little excitement at meal time, but as for the health benefits, variety doesn't really add any palpable value to an existing diet.
Many SG diets being espoused on the Internet over-emphasize the need for variety. It may sound good when you read it online, but think about it: what does variety really entail when it is applied to honey glider nutrition?
Every diet has a staple component. In the case of glider-bears in captivity, the most common staple component is commercial glider pellets. To create variety in a glider's diet, exotic pet owners resort to fresh/live/frozen food and the amount of pellets is reduced. Why am I emphasizing glider pellets?
Here's a fact: glider pellets have been in development for decades and many reputable manufacturers have been able to create a balanced mix for sugar bears.
This means that once a glider feeds on commercial pellets, it is already getting its adequate share of protein, sugars, fiber, and fat. If you reduce the amount of pellets in a sugar glider's diet and replace it with treats like mealworms, in the long term, the animal may suffer from malnutrition because it is getting a smaller portion of the pellets.
Many exotic pet owners treat their SG's like little royalties: different bowls of food are laid out in the sugar glider's cage to create variety.
If sugar gliders understood what was going on, the animals would feed on the pellets more and would pay less attention to food bowls filled with mealworms and other treats. Unfortunately, pets don't know any better. If your glider-bear sees treats, like a child, the glider will focus on eating the treats only and may ignore the staple food.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Ideal-Food-Ratio&id=6621890] The Ideal Food Ratio
What kind of diet ratio is ideal for sugar gliders (SG) in captivity? Based on current trends in veterinary medicine, exotic pet veterinarians nowadays are leaning toward the ratio of 75:25.
Seventy-five percent of a SG's diet should be composed of commercial glider pellets, while the remaining twenty-five percent should be composed of fresh food such as vegetables and fruits and live/frozen treats such as mealworms and insects.
This ratio may cause some confusion since many pet owners state on online message boards that fresh, live, or frozen food should comprise as much as fifty percent of a sugar glider's diet.
Whatever hype you hear or read about fresh food, don't fall into the trap of buying expensive exotic pet food just because people are saying it's the best for sugar gliders.
As we mentioned earlier, a balanced diet can be given to pet sugar bears for $10 to $15 a month only. Remember: sugar gliders only weigh a few ounces at adulthood, and they do not need to eat so much food in captivity.
Many people ask me if variety is good for Honey gliders. Well, variety can add a little excitement at meal time, but as for the health benefits, variety doesn't really add any palpable value to an existing diet.
Many SG diets being espoused on the Internet over-emphasize the need for variety. It may sound good when you read it online, but think about it: what does variety really entail when it is applied to honey glider nutrition?
Every diet has a staple component. In the case of glider-bears in captivity, the most common staple component is commercial glider pellets. To create variety in a glider's diet, exotic pet owners resort to fresh/live/frozen food and the amount of pellets is reduced. Why am I emphasizing glider pellets?
Here's a fact: glider pellets have been in development for decades and many reputable manufacturers have been able to create a balanced mix for sugar bears.
This means that once a glider feeds on commercial pellets, it is already getting its adequate share of protein, sugars, fiber, and fat. If you reduce the amount of pellets in a sugar glider's diet and replace it with treats like mealworms, in the long term, the animal may suffer from malnutrition because it is getting a smaller portion of the pellets.
Many exotic pet owners treat their SG's like little royalties: different bowls of food are laid out in the sugar glider's cage to create variety.
If sugar gliders understood what was going on, the animals would feed on the pellets more and would pay less attention to food bowls filled with mealworms and other treats. Unfortunately, pets don't know any better. If your glider-bear sees treats, like a child, the glider will focus on eating the treats only and may ignore the staple food.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Ideal-Food-Ratio&id=6621890] The Ideal Food Ratio
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Vitamin and Mineral Supplementation for Sugar Gliders
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Of course, sugar gliders (SG's) won't be able to go out and supplement their diets with vitamins and minerals, since these animals are kept as pets. So as pet owners, we have to provide additional vitamins and minerals. This can be accomplished by giving your sugar gliders supplements.
A peculiar thing about suggies is that these animals have to maintain balanced levels of the following trace
nutrients:
- Calcium
- Phosphorous
- Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3)
Unlike humans and other larger mammals, sugar bears are unable to tolerate prolonged periods of nutrient imbalance and deficiency.
This being the case, calcium-based supplementation must be given in proper amounts to both young and adult sugar gliders to keep their nutrient ratio at an optimum level.
If not, a SG can suffer severe nerve-related problems and may even suffer from bone problems. Once these problems set in, reversing the health conditions is very difficult. If nothing is done, the sugar glider will die.
There are hundreds of multivitamin supplements in the market today, and some are advertised as being fit for multiple species of animals. Avoid these brands at all cost. There is no such thing as a universal vitamin and mineral ratio that can be used for multiple species.
Each species requires a unique ratio of vitamins, minerals, and macronutrients.
A supplement for cats would be a horrible substitute for supplements meant to be given to dogs. Conversely, you cannot give supplements that were meant for cats or dogs to glider-bears. Doing so may cause more problems in the long-term.
How do you introduce vitamin and mineral supplementation? It's really very easy. Remember the ratio that we talked about earlier?
Use this food ratio to your advantage. Fresh fruits and vegetables are not banned from the sugar glider's diet. I am simply emphasizing that you must strictly control the portions to avoid over-feeding your suggie.
A calcium-based supplement can be given to your honey glider at night just before your retire to bed. Get a few pieces of fresh vegetable (no need to dice or mince) and just sprinkle the calcium-based supplement over the fresh veggies.
Giving fruits or vegetables whole preserves the moisture, which is good for glider-bears in general. Just make sure that you clean the cage in the morning. Remove any left-overs immediately to avoid infection and disease.
Another treat that you can safely give your suggie is whole wheat bread. A small piece suffices - just place the bread inside your glider's cage at night, just before heading to bed.
Be sure to add some calcium-based supplement on top of the bread before placing it in the honey glider's cage. Do not give your sugar bear bread every day. Remember, the whole wheat bread is a treat, not the glider's staple diet.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Glider As A Pet
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Vitamin-and-Mineral-Supplementation-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6624097] Vitamin and Mineral Supplementation for Sugar Gliders
Of course, sugar gliders (SG's) won't be able to go out and supplement their diets with vitamins and minerals, since these animals are kept as pets. So as pet owners, we have to provide additional vitamins and minerals. This can be accomplished by giving your sugar gliders supplements.
A peculiar thing about suggies is that these animals have to maintain balanced levels of the following trace
nutrients:
- Calcium
- Phosphorous
- Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3)
Unlike humans and other larger mammals, sugar bears are unable to tolerate prolonged periods of nutrient imbalance and deficiency.
This being the case, calcium-based supplementation must be given in proper amounts to both young and adult sugar gliders to keep their nutrient ratio at an optimum level.
If not, a SG can suffer severe nerve-related problems and may even suffer from bone problems. Once these problems set in, reversing the health conditions is very difficult. If nothing is done, the sugar glider will die.
There are hundreds of multivitamin supplements in the market today, and some are advertised as being fit for multiple species of animals. Avoid these brands at all cost. There is no such thing as a universal vitamin and mineral ratio that can be used for multiple species.
Each species requires a unique ratio of vitamins, minerals, and macronutrients.
A supplement for cats would be a horrible substitute for supplements meant to be given to dogs. Conversely, you cannot give supplements that were meant for cats or dogs to glider-bears. Doing so may cause more problems in the long-term.
How do you introduce vitamin and mineral supplementation? It's really very easy. Remember the ratio that we talked about earlier?
Use this food ratio to your advantage. Fresh fruits and vegetables are not banned from the sugar glider's diet. I am simply emphasizing that you must strictly control the portions to avoid over-feeding your suggie.
A calcium-based supplement can be given to your honey glider at night just before your retire to bed. Get a few pieces of fresh vegetable (no need to dice or mince) and just sprinkle the calcium-based supplement over the fresh veggies.
Giving fruits or vegetables whole preserves the moisture, which is good for glider-bears in general. Just make sure that you clean the cage in the morning. Remove any left-overs immediately to avoid infection and disease.
Another treat that you can safely give your suggie is whole wheat bread. A small piece suffices - just place the bread inside your glider's cage at night, just before heading to bed.
Be sure to add some calcium-based supplement on top of the bread before placing it in the honey glider's cage. Do not give your sugar bear bread every day. Remember, the whole wheat bread is a treat, not the glider's staple diet.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Glider As A Pet
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Vitamin-and-Mineral-Supplementation-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6624097] Vitamin and Mineral Supplementation for Sugar Gliders
Thursday, November 17, 2011
A Crabby Situation
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Matthew_A_Sanders]Matthew A Sanders
Hermit crabs are very appealing, but what do you know about them? Anything? Well actually the majority of people do not know much about these shy companions, but they are quite a bit of fun to own. Just remember that they're not traditional pets; they are more similar to a python or tarantula.
That doesn't mean they are LIKE the latter two, and it doesn't mean that they are bad pets. It just means that they are a little bit different. We'll discuss your hermit crab information, and soon enough you will see how much fun these are to own!
Prior to getting any pet though, you're going to want to learn about it. Though the learning process might take quite a bit of time, you are going to be glad that you took that time. I will do my best to help you learn by using both technical terms and understandable terms. This will be the beginning of the information you will need to determine whether or not you are suited to owning one.
When you think of a hermit crab, you are more than likely thinking about the standard terrestrial hermit crab which is based on land. You will probably see this type quite often at different pet stores.
The hermit crab is quite different from other animals. Most land based animals start out on land, but the hermit crab starts out in the water and then makes its way to land. It does need to go back to the water occasionally, but it can stay out of it for several months.
Is it hard to take care of a hermit crab?
You might be surprised to find out that it's quite easy to take care of this pet. That is actually a good thing because you'll definitely need more than one.
One thing that needs to be cleared up is the type of animal this is. Yes, it is called a hermit crab, but it is far from being an antisocial creature. You will actually find that it likes to interact with its owner as well as other crabs that you might introduce into its environment. You can put as many of them as you would like into the environment. As a matter of fact, the more the merrier!
Know that these pets are a bit of an investment, but they are worth buying, especially in number. Not only will they be happier, they will also be much more interesting if allowed to interact.
If you do this, then be rest assured that you are not the only one that does this. In fact many other owners these pets will buy them 'by the dozen'.
Matthew A Sanders is a Researcher and Author. You can find more information on Hermit Crabs on his site at http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com/hermit-crabs-information and you can receive his free eCourse by registering your interest at [http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com]http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Crabby-Situation&id=6615861] A Crabby Situation
Hermit crabs are very appealing, but what do you know about them? Anything? Well actually the majority of people do not know much about these shy companions, but they are quite a bit of fun to own. Just remember that they're not traditional pets; they are more similar to a python or tarantula.
That doesn't mean they are LIKE the latter two, and it doesn't mean that they are bad pets. It just means that they are a little bit different. We'll discuss your hermit crab information, and soon enough you will see how much fun these are to own!
Prior to getting any pet though, you're going to want to learn about it. Though the learning process might take quite a bit of time, you are going to be glad that you took that time. I will do my best to help you learn by using both technical terms and understandable terms. This will be the beginning of the information you will need to determine whether or not you are suited to owning one.
When you think of a hermit crab, you are more than likely thinking about the standard terrestrial hermit crab which is based on land. You will probably see this type quite often at different pet stores.
The hermit crab is quite different from other animals. Most land based animals start out on land, but the hermit crab starts out in the water and then makes its way to land. It does need to go back to the water occasionally, but it can stay out of it for several months.
Is it hard to take care of a hermit crab?
You might be surprised to find out that it's quite easy to take care of this pet. That is actually a good thing because you'll definitely need more than one.
One thing that needs to be cleared up is the type of animal this is. Yes, it is called a hermit crab, but it is far from being an antisocial creature. You will actually find that it likes to interact with its owner as well as other crabs that you might introduce into its environment. You can put as many of them as you would like into the environment. As a matter of fact, the more the merrier!
Know that these pets are a bit of an investment, but they are worth buying, especially in number. Not only will they be happier, they will also be much more interesting if allowed to interact.
If you do this, then be rest assured that you are not the only one that does this. In fact many other owners these pets will buy them 'by the dozen'.
Matthew A Sanders is a Researcher and Author. You can find more information on Hermit Crabs on his site at http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com/hermit-crabs-information and you can receive his free eCourse by registering your interest at [http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com]http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Crabby-Situation&id=6615861] A Crabby Situation
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
How to Groom Your Chinchilla
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jack_Sterling]Jack Sterling
Just like several other rodents, your chinchilla has to clean its fur occasionally.
A chinchilla without means to thoroughly clean itself could get stress and also other health-related issues. To completely clean your chinchilla, you must have a bowl or another container as well as dusting powder. The rodent will roll around inside the dust bath until it feels nice and clean. The special dust will help emit dirt and oils from the chinchilla's coat, making its fur look and feel vibrant rather than oily.
A number of chinchillas can be allergic to the dust. You may notice that your fuzzy companion is trying to wipe its nose against something, or see that its eyes are watering, it might very well be caused by allergies. You could help it out by means of cleaning its nose by using a piece of cloth or some toilet tissue. It would be best if you seek assistance from a veterinarian, as it could indicate that there's something wrong with your chinchilla's respiratory system.
Dust Bath
As to how frequently you ought to wash your chinchilla, once every seven days is normally enough, but there's certainly no harm in carrying it out every other day; nearly all chinchillas love to roll around in the dust. If you reside in a place with higher than average temperatures throughout the summer, washing your chinchilla every second day is what you'll want to aim for. The dust will make sure the chinchilla's coat continues to be free of grease, which in turn helps prevent it from overheating.
There are more methods to stop your chinchilla from having an unhealthy coat. Smoking tobacco around the animal is definitely a bad idea, because the tar residue from the cigarette will get caught in their fur. The chinchilla makes use of its tongue to wash itself, so you can probably imagine where that tar eventually ends up. It might be important to give your chinchilla a good bath, with water and not dust, should you wish to get the tar out of its fur.
In the event your chinchilla decides to not make use of the dust bath, you can try and massage the furry critter instead. It helps the animal feel cleaner and it'll hopefully begin using the dust bath frequently. In the event your chinchilla stays still in the dust bath, or perhaps starts whimpering whenever you put it down, it might be resulting from an injury. Get the animal looked at if that's the case.
Make sure you bathe the animal somewhere out of the way where the dust won't cover the whole household, or perhaps put a large bath towel or blanket below the bowl to capture the dust.
You can get the specified equipment and dust for dust baths in your local pet store as well as on Amazon.
You can find more chinchilla facts and other interesting articles at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Groom-Your-Chinchilla&id=6616735] How to Groom Your Chinchilla
Just like several other rodents, your chinchilla has to clean its fur occasionally.
A chinchilla without means to thoroughly clean itself could get stress and also other health-related issues. To completely clean your chinchilla, you must have a bowl or another container as well as dusting powder. The rodent will roll around inside the dust bath until it feels nice and clean. The special dust will help emit dirt and oils from the chinchilla's coat, making its fur look and feel vibrant rather than oily.
A number of chinchillas can be allergic to the dust. You may notice that your fuzzy companion is trying to wipe its nose against something, or see that its eyes are watering, it might very well be caused by allergies. You could help it out by means of cleaning its nose by using a piece of cloth or some toilet tissue. It would be best if you seek assistance from a veterinarian, as it could indicate that there's something wrong with your chinchilla's respiratory system.
Dust Bath
As to how frequently you ought to wash your chinchilla, once every seven days is normally enough, but there's certainly no harm in carrying it out every other day; nearly all chinchillas love to roll around in the dust. If you reside in a place with higher than average temperatures throughout the summer, washing your chinchilla every second day is what you'll want to aim for. The dust will make sure the chinchilla's coat continues to be free of grease, which in turn helps prevent it from overheating.
There are more methods to stop your chinchilla from having an unhealthy coat. Smoking tobacco around the animal is definitely a bad idea, because the tar residue from the cigarette will get caught in their fur. The chinchilla makes use of its tongue to wash itself, so you can probably imagine where that tar eventually ends up. It might be important to give your chinchilla a good bath, with water and not dust, should you wish to get the tar out of its fur.
In the event your chinchilla decides to not make use of the dust bath, you can try and massage the furry critter instead. It helps the animal feel cleaner and it'll hopefully begin using the dust bath frequently. In the event your chinchilla stays still in the dust bath, or perhaps starts whimpering whenever you put it down, it might be resulting from an injury. Get the animal looked at if that's the case.
Make sure you bathe the animal somewhere out of the way where the dust won't cover the whole household, or perhaps put a large bath towel or blanket below the bowl to capture the dust.
You can get the specified equipment and dust for dust baths in your local pet store as well as on Amazon.
You can find more chinchilla facts and other interesting articles at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Groom-Your-Chinchilla&id=6616735] How to Groom Your Chinchilla
Sunday, November 13, 2011
What Does A Chinchilla Eat? - Feeding Your Pet Nutritious Food For A Long And Healthy Life
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
You'll need a good understanding of what your chinchilla's digestive system can and cannot handle in order to keep your new pet chinchilla healthy, happy and full of energy. You might be surprised to learn that chinchillas have sensitive digestive systems and are unable to digest certain things properly. Making sure that your chinchilla eats a diet that's appropriate for its digestive system is essential. So, what does a chinchilla eat? Keep reading and you will find out the answer to this very important question.
What Wild Chinchillas Eat
Wild chinchillas typically eat mostly vegetation that includes a lot of roughage. The digestive system of a chinchilla is simply not designed to handle rich or fatty foods. You'll need to feed your pet special chinchilla pellets, but you'll want to supplement that diet with plenty of fresh grass hay in order to help him live a long life.
Changing Your Chinchilla's Diet
If you need to change your chinchilla's food, make sure you do it gradually, so that your pet doesn't notice and its digestive system doesn't react adversely.
A number of professional chinchilla breeders use the following "secret" when they change their chinchilla's food: Begin changing the food by mixing a tiny amount of the new food into the old. The amount of new food might be so small that your pet won't even realize he's eating anything different. Then, each time you feed your chinchilla, introduce a slightly larger amount of new food into the food your chinchilla is used to eating, reducing the amount of old food by the same amount. The process will be gradual, but don't worry about how long it takes. Eventually you'll have completely changed your chinchilla's food. And even more importantly, you'll have changed your chinchilla's food without causing your pet any digestive problems.
Treats
Many pets love treats, and chinchillas aren't any different. But just because your chinchilla loves eating treats doesn't mean it should have as many treats as it wants. Although it's fine to give your chinchilla treats, don't give it so many that they basically become part of your chinchilla's food.
Pellets And Loose Food
You can feed your chinchilla either pellets or loose food. Although the loose food is nutritionally balanced, feeding pellets to your chinchilla is an easy way to make sure its diet is perfectly balanced. Mixing loose food into your chinchilla's food is fine, but only for supplementing its diet. If your chinchilla only eats loose food, it won't be receiving a nutritionally complete diet. Chinchillas typically eat one to two tablespoons of pellets every day.
Hay
Although pellets will give your chinchilla all the nutrients it needs, they do not provide the fiber that is required for your pet to stay healthy. That's where a constant supply of hay comes into play. Chinchillas love hay, but they also need it for their digestive systems, so make sure your pet always has fresh hay available. Ideally, a chinchilla should eat a handful of hay every day.
Water
You also need to make sure that your chinchilla always has fresh, room temperature drinking water available. Cold water could upset his digestive system.
These are the basics you need to know about a chinchilla's food. You might want to do some additional research to understand why some types of hay are not good for chinchillas and why some pellets don't provide all the nutrition they promise.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/how-to-care-for-chinchilla]what chinchillas can eat? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Does-A-Chinchilla-Eat?---Feeding-Your-Pet-Nutritious-Food-For-A-Long-And-Healthy-Life&id=6626274] What Does A Chinchilla Eat? - Feeding Your Pet Nutritious Food For A Long And Healthy Life
You'll need a good understanding of what your chinchilla's digestive system can and cannot handle in order to keep your new pet chinchilla healthy, happy and full of energy. You might be surprised to learn that chinchillas have sensitive digestive systems and are unable to digest certain things properly. Making sure that your chinchilla eats a diet that's appropriate for its digestive system is essential. So, what does a chinchilla eat? Keep reading and you will find out the answer to this very important question.
What Wild Chinchillas Eat
Wild chinchillas typically eat mostly vegetation that includes a lot of roughage. The digestive system of a chinchilla is simply not designed to handle rich or fatty foods. You'll need to feed your pet special chinchilla pellets, but you'll want to supplement that diet with plenty of fresh grass hay in order to help him live a long life.
Changing Your Chinchilla's Diet
If you need to change your chinchilla's food, make sure you do it gradually, so that your pet doesn't notice and its digestive system doesn't react adversely.
A number of professional chinchilla breeders use the following "secret" when they change their chinchilla's food: Begin changing the food by mixing a tiny amount of the new food into the old. The amount of new food might be so small that your pet won't even realize he's eating anything different. Then, each time you feed your chinchilla, introduce a slightly larger amount of new food into the food your chinchilla is used to eating, reducing the amount of old food by the same amount. The process will be gradual, but don't worry about how long it takes. Eventually you'll have completely changed your chinchilla's food. And even more importantly, you'll have changed your chinchilla's food without causing your pet any digestive problems.
Treats
Many pets love treats, and chinchillas aren't any different. But just because your chinchilla loves eating treats doesn't mean it should have as many treats as it wants. Although it's fine to give your chinchilla treats, don't give it so many that they basically become part of your chinchilla's food.
Pellets And Loose Food
You can feed your chinchilla either pellets or loose food. Although the loose food is nutritionally balanced, feeding pellets to your chinchilla is an easy way to make sure its diet is perfectly balanced. Mixing loose food into your chinchilla's food is fine, but only for supplementing its diet. If your chinchilla only eats loose food, it won't be receiving a nutritionally complete diet. Chinchillas typically eat one to two tablespoons of pellets every day.
Hay
Although pellets will give your chinchilla all the nutrients it needs, they do not provide the fiber that is required for your pet to stay healthy. That's where a constant supply of hay comes into play. Chinchillas love hay, but they also need it for their digestive systems, so make sure your pet always has fresh hay available. Ideally, a chinchilla should eat a handful of hay every day.
Water
You also need to make sure that your chinchilla always has fresh, room temperature drinking water available. Cold water could upset his digestive system.
These are the basics you need to know about a chinchilla's food. You might want to do some additional research to understand why some types of hay are not good for chinchillas and why some pellets don't provide all the nutrition they promise.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/how-to-care-for-chinchilla]what chinchillas can eat? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Does-A-Chinchilla-Eat?---Feeding-Your-Pet-Nutritious-Food-For-A-Long-And-Healthy-Life&id=6626274] What Does A Chinchilla Eat? - Feeding Your Pet Nutritious Food For A Long And Healthy Life
Friday, November 11, 2011
Cages For Chinchilla Pets - Choosing A Safe, Practical Cage That Permits Easy And Fast Cleaning
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
When you're trying to decide which type of cage might be best for your new chinchilla, keep in mind that chinchillas love climbing and jumping onto things. They also love running and playing inside their cages. So, it's better to choose a cage that's taller than it is wide. You should also remember that because chinchillas are larger than hamsters or guinea pigs, they need bigger cages than those pets.
Cages for chinchilla pets should always be made of wire to prevent them from chewing their way out. Because your chinchilla might gnaw on the wire, make sure that it is not painted or coated with any substance. The wires should not be spaced more than one to two inches apart, but no more than one-half inch apart on the bottom of the cage. The smaller gaps on the bottom of the cage can help prevent leg injuries as your chinchilla walks or runs in its cage.
The best cages for chinchilla pets have a pullout tray to permit easy cleaning. If yours has a solid floor, you can put wood shavings or newspaper on the bottom. Pullout trays should be cleaned at least weekly, but solid floors will require it more frequently. Disinfect the entire cage thoroughly at least once a month. Fortunately, chinchillas typically pick a particular area of the cage for urinating. This habit lets you place extra bedding there to help absorb the urine. You could even sprinkle some baking soda there to help absorb the urine's odor.
Cages for chinchilla pets must be kept in the right location. For example, the temperature in the area should be kept between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. You'll need to monitor the temperature to make sure it stays within that range. Although you'll need to avoid placing the cage in a spot that's too drafty, the area should be well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer months. Your chinchilla can tolerate temperatures as high as 83 degrees Fahrenheit, but needs to stay out of direct sunlight. The temperature should never go higher than 86 degrees. Directing a fan in the direction of your chinchilla won't help it cool off because chinchillas don't sweat - the fan will only make the hot air go in circles. One strategy for cooling off an overheated chinchilla consists of using a covered pan containing ice cubes inside the cage. Your pet can then curl up against it to get cooler. You do, however, need to make sure that your pet will not be able to fall into the pan of ice cubes.
Every chinchilla requires exercise. A large cage will let it move around and climb. You should also put an exercise wheel inside. In addition, give your pet some time outside the cage to stretch its legs. An hour of supervised play in a room that�s chinchilla-proved will help keep your pet happy. Remove any chemicals and poisonous plants that could make your chinchilla ill, and make sure there aren't any exposed electrical wires it could gnaw, because chinchillas are rodents and they love chewing on things. You'll also want to keep an eye on your chinchilla while it's playing to make sure it doesn't chew on the corners of your furniture. This supervised playtime provides the perfect opportunity to play with your new chinchilla pet and have some fun watching its antics.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/chinchilla-accommodation]cages for chinchilla pets? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Cages-For-Chinchilla-Pets---Choosing-A-Safe,-Practical-Cage-That-Permits-Easy-And-Fast-Cleaning&id=6629137] Cages For Chinchilla Pets - Choosing A Safe, Practical Cage That Permits Easy And Fast Cleaning
When you're trying to decide which type of cage might be best for your new chinchilla, keep in mind that chinchillas love climbing and jumping onto things. They also love running and playing inside their cages. So, it's better to choose a cage that's taller than it is wide. You should also remember that because chinchillas are larger than hamsters or guinea pigs, they need bigger cages than those pets.
Cages for chinchilla pets should always be made of wire to prevent them from chewing their way out. Because your chinchilla might gnaw on the wire, make sure that it is not painted or coated with any substance. The wires should not be spaced more than one to two inches apart, but no more than one-half inch apart on the bottom of the cage. The smaller gaps on the bottom of the cage can help prevent leg injuries as your chinchilla walks or runs in its cage.
The best cages for chinchilla pets have a pullout tray to permit easy cleaning. If yours has a solid floor, you can put wood shavings or newspaper on the bottom. Pullout trays should be cleaned at least weekly, but solid floors will require it more frequently. Disinfect the entire cage thoroughly at least once a month. Fortunately, chinchillas typically pick a particular area of the cage for urinating. This habit lets you place extra bedding there to help absorb the urine. You could even sprinkle some baking soda there to help absorb the urine's odor.
Cages for chinchilla pets must be kept in the right location. For example, the temperature in the area should be kept between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. You'll need to monitor the temperature to make sure it stays within that range. Although you'll need to avoid placing the cage in a spot that's too drafty, the area should be well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer months. Your chinchilla can tolerate temperatures as high as 83 degrees Fahrenheit, but needs to stay out of direct sunlight. The temperature should never go higher than 86 degrees. Directing a fan in the direction of your chinchilla won't help it cool off because chinchillas don't sweat - the fan will only make the hot air go in circles. One strategy for cooling off an overheated chinchilla consists of using a covered pan containing ice cubes inside the cage. Your pet can then curl up against it to get cooler. You do, however, need to make sure that your pet will not be able to fall into the pan of ice cubes.
Every chinchilla requires exercise. A large cage will let it move around and climb. You should also put an exercise wheel inside. In addition, give your pet some time outside the cage to stretch its legs. An hour of supervised play in a room that�s chinchilla-proved will help keep your pet happy. Remove any chemicals and poisonous plants that could make your chinchilla ill, and make sure there aren't any exposed electrical wires it could gnaw, because chinchillas are rodents and they love chewing on things. You'll also want to keep an eye on your chinchilla while it's playing to make sure it doesn't chew on the corners of your furniture. This supervised playtime provides the perfect opportunity to play with your new chinchilla pet and have some fun watching its antics.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/chinchilla-accommodation]cages for chinchilla pets? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Cages-For-Chinchilla-Pets---Choosing-A-Safe,-Practical-Cage-That-Permits-Easy-And-Fast-Cleaning&id=6629137] Cages For Chinchilla Pets - Choosing A Safe, Practical Cage That Permits Easy And Fast Cleaning
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
How to Choose the Best Rat Cage
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Derrick_R_Anderson]Derrick R Anderson
The more traditional type of rat cages available in a pet store are constructed from sheet metal. There are various designs. Before buying a cage, look carefully for any signs of rough edges that could injure your pet quite seriously. Also consider ease of access and the strength of the door fastening. Clearly, you will need to be able to clean the cage out thoroughly with minimum disturbance. A sliding tray may be useful, but ensure that sunflower or other large seeds will not block its movement. Do not be surprised if a plastic tray gets gnawed.
The size of cage you need will depend to some extent on the number of rats you wish to keep together, but generally always choose as large a cage as possible. The more expensive cages tend to be the most suitable and are perhaps less likely to rust prematurely.
The spacing of the bars is important for your pet's welfare. It should be less than 1.25cm (0.5in), otherwise the rodents may rub their snouts between the bars, causing hair loss and possible injury. In an emergency, however, a bird cage can be used to provide separate accommodation if no other suitable housing is available.
As there will be times when you will need to wash and clean the rats' quarters completely, cages with a heavy duty plastic base and a detachable wire top, similar in many ways to modern bird cages, have become increasingly popular. Accommodation of this type is used for laboratory rats, where ease of maintenance is viewed as a vital design consideration. Laboratory cages can also be used to house domestic pets, but the majority of suppliers are not keen to sell individual units to members of the general public.
The most recent development in rat housing is an ingenious interconnecting plastic tubular system suitable for the smaller species. It is available in a range of colors and the units can be joined together to create housing of various shapes and sizes. Although eye-catching and versatile, this system is not without its disadvantages. While young rats can move through the tubes without difficulty, older, more obese animals may encounter problems, and could even get stuck. These units are relatively costly, and you will probably need to buy a second unit, as the basic kit usually provides only a small area. Cleaning, too, can prove troublesome. On the whole, however, these units do offer an attractive, inventive, yet natural setting for burrowing rats.
The author gets all of his [http://www.legacycages.com/index.php/rat-cages.html]rat cages from legacycages.com. They, also, offer [http://www.legacycages.com/index.php/guinea-pig-cages.html]guinea pig cages that some people use for rats.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Best-Rat-Cage&id=6629988] How to Choose the Best Rat Cage
The more traditional type of rat cages available in a pet store are constructed from sheet metal. There are various designs. Before buying a cage, look carefully for any signs of rough edges that could injure your pet quite seriously. Also consider ease of access and the strength of the door fastening. Clearly, you will need to be able to clean the cage out thoroughly with minimum disturbance. A sliding tray may be useful, but ensure that sunflower or other large seeds will not block its movement. Do not be surprised if a plastic tray gets gnawed.
The size of cage you need will depend to some extent on the number of rats you wish to keep together, but generally always choose as large a cage as possible. The more expensive cages tend to be the most suitable and are perhaps less likely to rust prematurely.
The spacing of the bars is important for your pet's welfare. It should be less than 1.25cm (0.5in), otherwise the rodents may rub their snouts between the bars, causing hair loss and possible injury. In an emergency, however, a bird cage can be used to provide separate accommodation if no other suitable housing is available.
As there will be times when you will need to wash and clean the rats' quarters completely, cages with a heavy duty plastic base and a detachable wire top, similar in many ways to modern bird cages, have become increasingly popular. Accommodation of this type is used for laboratory rats, where ease of maintenance is viewed as a vital design consideration. Laboratory cages can also be used to house domestic pets, but the majority of suppliers are not keen to sell individual units to members of the general public.
The most recent development in rat housing is an ingenious interconnecting plastic tubular system suitable for the smaller species. It is available in a range of colors and the units can be joined together to create housing of various shapes and sizes. Although eye-catching and versatile, this system is not without its disadvantages. While young rats can move through the tubes without difficulty, older, more obese animals may encounter problems, and could even get stuck. These units are relatively costly, and you will probably need to buy a second unit, as the basic kit usually provides only a small area. Cleaning, too, can prove troublesome. On the whole, however, these units do offer an attractive, inventive, yet natural setting for burrowing rats.
The author gets all of his [http://www.legacycages.com/index.php/rat-cages.html]rat cages from legacycages.com. They, also, offer [http://www.legacycages.com/index.php/guinea-pig-cages.html]guinea pig cages that some people use for rats.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Choose-the-Best-Rat-Cage&id=6629988] How to Choose the Best Rat Cage
Monday, November 7, 2011
Names For Chinchilla Pets - How To Choose The Perfect Name For Your New Exotic Pet
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
Naming a new pet can be a fun, easy thing to do for some people. For others, however, it can be challenging or even overwhelming. How do you go about picking a name for a new chinchilla? Keep reading and you will find lots of suitable names for chinchilla pets in this article.
Some people choose their chinchilla names before they even bring them home. Other people wait a while before deciding on their new pets' names, so they can see what their personalities are like and choose names that would suit them well. There are a large number of creative names that fit these furry little critters very well.
Some chinchilla owners name their pets based on their appearance. For example, Sugar, Salt, or Pepper can indicate the color of a chinchilla's fur. Other names that are based on appearance include Fluffy or Speckles, for example. If you own a chubby chinchilla, you might consider naming him Hefty. Or, if your chinchilla is small and thin, Wimpy might be a good name. Sonar is another popular appearance-based name because these little guys have such great big ears.
Other chinchilla owners prefer to use names that are based on their behavior. For example, chinchillas can be physically very active, jumping and climbing all over their living space. In the wild, chinchillas live in the mountains, climbing rock faces and escaping their predators by jumping into mountain crevasses. Some examples of creative names for active pets include Spunky, Feisty or Skippy. For calmer, more laid-back chinchillas that prefer sleeping over running all over the room, a name like Sleepy or Drowsy might be ideal.
Chinchillas tend to be set in their ways, so if the chinchilla you buy is active it will probably continue to be active for as long as you own it. Likewise, if you buy a chinchilla that is shy, it might always stay that way. It will take a great deal of work for you to help a shy chinchilla overcome its reluctance and become comfortable being handled. Bashful might be a good choice as a name for a shy chinchilla.
Still other chinchilla owners name their pets for where they originally come from. Andy, referring to these animals' origins in the Andes Mountains, has become one of the more popular chinchilla names.
Finding a name that suits your chinchilla is a fun thing to do. In addition to the types of chinchilla names mentioned above, you might also consider naming your chinchilla for something you like. For example, you could name your chinchilla after your favorite rock band or TV actor. Favorite cartoon characters also make creative chinchilla names. The list of possibilities for good, creative chinchilla names is almost infinite. There are no specific chinchilla names that owners almost universally select. Instead, the emphasis is on finding a name that works for the individual chinchilla and its owner. Names are important, but chinchillas have so much built-in personality that you could almost name them anything. Although a chinchilla won't respond to its name if it's called, naming them creatively makes their owners feel like their furry pets are important family members.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/chinchilla-information]names for chinchilla pets and how to care for them? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Names-For-Chinchilla-Pets---How-To-Choose-The-Perfect-Name-For-Your-New-Exotic-Pet&id=6628117] Names For Chinchilla Pets - How To Choose The Perfect Name For Your New Exotic Pet
Naming a new pet can be a fun, easy thing to do for some people. For others, however, it can be challenging or even overwhelming. How do you go about picking a name for a new chinchilla? Keep reading and you will find lots of suitable names for chinchilla pets in this article.
Some people choose their chinchilla names before they even bring them home. Other people wait a while before deciding on their new pets' names, so they can see what their personalities are like and choose names that would suit them well. There are a large number of creative names that fit these furry little critters very well.
Some chinchilla owners name their pets based on their appearance. For example, Sugar, Salt, or Pepper can indicate the color of a chinchilla's fur. Other names that are based on appearance include Fluffy or Speckles, for example. If you own a chubby chinchilla, you might consider naming him Hefty. Or, if your chinchilla is small and thin, Wimpy might be a good name. Sonar is another popular appearance-based name because these little guys have such great big ears.
Other chinchilla owners prefer to use names that are based on their behavior. For example, chinchillas can be physically very active, jumping and climbing all over their living space. In the wild, chinchillas live in the mountains, climbing rock faces and escaping their predators by jumping into mountain crevasses. Some examples of creative names for active pets include Spunky, Feisty or Skippy. For calmer, more laid-back chinchillas that prefer sleeping over running all over the room, a name like Sleepy or Drowsy might be ideal.
Chinchillas tend to be set in their ways, so if the chinchilla you buy is active it will probably continue to be active for as long as you own it. Likewise, if you buy a chinchilla that is shy, it might always stay that way. It will take a great deal of work for you to help a shy chinchilla overcome its reluctance and become comfortable being handled. Bashful might be a good choice as a name for a shy chinchilla.
Still other chinchilla owners name their pets for where they originally come from. Andy, referring to these animals' origins in the Andes Mountains, has become one of the more popular chinchilla names.
Finding a name that suits your chinchilla is a fun thing to do. In addition to the types of chinchilla names mentioned above, you might also consider naming your chinchilla for something you like. For example, you could name your chinchilla after your favorite rock band or TV actor. Favorite cartoon characters also make creative chinchilla names. The list of possibilities for good, creative chinchilla names is almost infinite. There are no specific chinchilla names that owners almost universally select. Instead, the emphasis is on finding a name that works for the individual chinchilla and its owner. Names are important, but chinchillas have so much built-in personality that you could almost name them anything. Although a chinchilla won't respond to its name if it's called, naming them creatively makes their owners feel like their furry pets are important family members.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/chinchilla-information]names for chinchilla pets and how to care for them? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Names-For-Chinchilla-Pets---How-To-Choose-The-Perfect-Name-For-Your-New-Exotic-Pet&id=6628117] Names For Chinchilla Pets - How To Choose The Perfect Name For Your New Exotic Pet
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