Why Ferrets Steal Things

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gwen_Nicodemus]Gwen Nicodemus
The word ferret has its origins in Latin and translates to little thief. With that tidbit of knowledge, it shouldn't surprise you that ferrets like to steal things and hoard them.
My ferrets take anything they can drag. I've seen my little, one pound girl try to carry off the dog's sterilized bone; the bone weighs more than she does. (The only reason she didn't succeed is that the dog saw her dragging the bone across the room and intervened.) They have appropriated my shoes, my wrist brace, and stuffed toys. They have snatched bookmarks, balls, and food dishes. They have pilfered computer mice, tissues, and socks. They have removed apples, potatoes, and staple removers. If they can pirate an item, they will.
So, after my ferrets acquire an object of desire, they hoard it. Just about every stolen thing ends up in the same place. After I clean, they might relocate their stash, but there's usually only one cache at a time. I've found the cache under their cage. One time the stash was behind the television and one time they actually put everything inside one of my husband's speakers. Currently, my babies like to relocate objects to inside their Tower of Fun, a tube that twists up and down. The fuzzies like to slide down the slopes of the Tower of Fun, so it's a little strange that they block their fun sliding route with toys. Yet, they do.
Why?
Since I don't speak ferret, and my ferrets don't speak human, I can only guess based on their natural behaviors in the wild. Polecats (who our domesticated ferrets have been domesticated from) are carnivores. They're hunters. They kill things smaller than themselves (usually smaller, but I've seen videos of ferrets killing things larger than they are). So, a ferret kills a mouse and eats it. When it's done, it will hide the leftovers. If a ferret kills an animal that is too big to eat in one sitting, the ferret will stash the corpse to finish later. And, in all of these instances, ferrets are trying to prevent other animals from gaining their spoils.
I think that's probably the best explanation for why ferrets steal, but I have one other thought. Frequently, I find ferrets asleep amidst their stolen treasures. Usually, when they sleep in their cache, the items are soft and squishy, like small stuffed toys and other fluffy things. So, my second hypothesis is that ferrets like to build cozy beds.
Gwen Nicodemus is a freelance engineer/writer and homeschooling mom who loves ferrets and dogs. Gwen rescues ferrets and trains Guide Dog Puppies. Visit her website, [http://notionnexus.com/index.php/critters]Notion Nexus, for ferret information, status on her current Guide Dog Puppy, and a free coloring book.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Why-Ferrets-Steal-Things&id=6605698] Why Ferrets Steal Things

Homemade Meals for Sugar Gliders

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Are you an advocate of homemade meals for pets? Don't get me wrong - I have immense respect for pet owners who choose to make homemade meals because they want their pets to receive only the freshest and most nutritious food available.
It may appear that I was discounting homemade meals at the beginning of this article, but in reality, I have only shown some negative light on homemade diets that over-emphasize empty calories.
There are some homemade diets for sugar gliders that you can try if you really want to give your new pets something that has been lovingly created at home.
General instructions for the recipes:
1.Combine all of the ingredients by using a regular blender or food processor.
2.After blending, pour contents into an ice-cube tray. Fill each space halfway only. During mealtime, each sugar glider should receive an equivalent of just one tablespoon of food (that's why each space in the ice tray should only be filled halfway).
3.Half teaspoon of treats, veggies, and fruits can also be given after the main meal has been finished unless the diet utilizes fresh fruit & vegetables already.
Diet # 1: Wheat and Chicken Diet
The composition of the Wheat & Chicken Diet is as follows:
- Quarter cup of apple juice (canned, boxed or fresh)
- Half cup of honey (use processed honey, not raw honey!)
- One whole egg (boil the egg until it becomes hard-boiled and remove the shell)
- Four ounces of baby yogurt juice
- One teaspoon of regular calcium-based supplement
- Two teaspoons of calcium-based supplement with added vitamin D3 (the second supplementation should not contain any phosphorous)
- Two and a half ounces of baby food (chicken flavor)
- Quarter cup of wheat germ
- Half cup of oatmeal (if oatmeal is not available you can use whole-grain cereal instead)
Diet # 2: Basic Leadbeater's Diet
The composition of the Basic Leadbeater's Diet is as follows:
- 150 milliliters of water (use slightly warm water when preparing this food)
- 150 milliliters of commercial honey
- 1 whole egg (boil the egg and remove the shell)
- 5 teaspoons of baby cereal (Choose the variant that is rich in protein. The cereal will provide most of the protein in this diet)
- 1 to 2 teaspoons of a calcium-based mineral supplement
Note:
Never mix the recipe with chocolates or table sugar because they contain chemical compounds that can easily build up in a sugar glider's system to cause toxicity.
My name is Gavin Mathews and I've been a Sugar Glider Enthusiast due to which, I've gained a good amount of knowledge about Sugar Gliders. As a Glider enthusiast, it is my goal to see that all pet Gliders are properly cared for, so I'd like to share my knowledge with you.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/breeding-your-sugar-glider/]Breeding Your Sugar Glider
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Choosing A Cage for Sugar Gliders

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=CaSandra_Poulos]CaSandra Poulos
Congratulations on being a proud owner of a sugar glider! You have no idea how lucky you are to have a lovable new pet. You have probably already done some research on how to take good care of your furry little friend and you most likely already know the facts about sugar gliders being nocturnal possums.
Now the next most important thing to consider is the cage for your sugar gliders. They are very social creatures and they love to play and glide around. A cage for them must be comfortable, wide, and tall enough for them to fully enjoy their new home with you.
When it comes to a cage for your gliders, a cage of 24 by 24 inches is the minimum necessary for them to be comfortable, and it has to be at least 36 inches in height too, if you have a pair of gliders. Height is also a very important factor to consider. You must also bear in mind that the cage wire must not exceed � inch in width, otherwise, your glider can fall in between the wires. The cage must also be filled with toys and must have a horizontal cage bar, an exercise wheel and most importantly, a nesting box must be present, too.
When setting up your cage for your new little friend, you must have the thought "he needs to feel at home" in mind. It is so easy to make a cage for your sugar glider and it will only take 20 to 30 minutes of your time to prepare its home. You can buy your own cage or you can make it from scratch as long as you follow the 24 x 24 inch rule. Also make sure that the door of the cage is big enough to fit the nesting box through. Set up the cage in a quiet area of your home, and make sure it's located on a tabletop.
Your sugar gliders are nocturnal creatures, so yes they are awake during the night. And during the day, they sleep. Make sure they are not bothered by noise whenever they are snoring the whole day away. Your cage for your sugar gliders must also be kept at 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight.
Attach a clip on dish for its food and water. You can use a water bottle but just provide a dish of water until your glider is capable enough to use the bottle. As for the nest box, it can be made either of wood, plastic or wicker. You can even use a cloth pouch if you like. After all, gliders love their mama's pouch!
Also provide a bunch of fresh branches so your glider can climb on them. Just stay clear from cedar and pine. Lastly, don't forget the toys because your glider would surely love to be around toys in their home too. With a little attention and love you can make the perfect hone for your new family member!
CaSandra Poulos is an avid lover of sugar gliders offers a free "10 Things You Have To Know About Sugar Gliders" email mini-course at her [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/]sugar gliders website which includes information on finding great [http://www.wheretogetasugarglider.com/sugar_glider_breeders/]sugar glider breeders.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Choosing-A-Cage-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6616422] Choosing A Cage for Sugar Gliders

General Guide to Sugar Glider Physiology, Behavior, and Interaction

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
The following notes cover essential points about sugar glider physiology and basic behavior patterns. Use this information to better understand why your sugar glider (SG) is behaving in a particular manner.
1. Information about the group or colony is passed around through scents. If you introduce a new sugar glider to an existing colony, it will most likely be scented by the dominant sugar glider. Either this happens, or a fight will ensue.
2. Only male suggies have scenting glands on their faces. This makes it easy to differentiate males from females. Male glider bears are keener to mark their territories than females.
3. A sugar bear that has been replaced by a more dominant member of the colony can become depressed and may begin to exhibit signs of depression.
The behavior of other sugar bears toward particular gliders in a group also has a direct bearing on how a suggie will behave in the long-term. For example, if a sugar bear is regularly bullied by older and stronger gliders, the weaker sugar bear may become depressed or may exhibit excessive aggression.
4. Fights that ensue because a new suggie has been introduced to an existing group should be prevented because adult sugar bears have been known to fight 'intruders' to the death. At the first sign of aggression, remove the newcomer and transfer the new sugar bear to a separate cage.
5. The dominant male of a group should not be removed because this will cause stress to the entire group. Stress can eventually lead to extreme symptoms like self-mutilation.
Some pet owners remove the dominant male to facilitate the entry of a new SG. This approach may or may not work, because the colony system of honey gliders is so important that other members of the group become physiologically weakened when a dominant member is forcibly removed from the group.
6. Rubbing a piece of fabric to a newcomer's body would be a better approach when introducing new gliders to an existing group. Let the old gliders bond with the smell before showing the existing group their new member. This way, the entry of the new member will have less of a negative impact on the existing group.
7. New gliders should be placed in a starter's cage for at least 21 days before being introduced to the existing colony or group. This is done to reduce the chances of spreading infection or disease.
8. If a new SG has been attacked or has not been integrated through general scenting, the sugar glider must be taken out and placed in a separate cage once again. Any attempts to re-integrate the new honey glider should be done after one or two weeks.
9. Honey bears are naturally active at night because this marsupial species is nocturnal. In the wild, honey bears hunt at night as well.
10. Behavior synchronization is sometimes observed in small groups of sugar bears. If one glider becomes alarmed, it is possible that the others will become alarmed as well.
11. When temperatures drop, a colony of honey bears will group closely together to raise or maintain their body temperatures.
12. The gestation period of sugar bear is only fifteen to seventeen days.
13. A sugar glider can reproduce any time of the year.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets?
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?General-Guide-to-Sugar-Glider-Physiology,-Behavior,-and-Interaction&id=6616473] General Guide to Sugar Glider Physiology, Behavior, and Interaction

The Ideal Food Ratio

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
What kind of diet ratio is ideal for sugar gliders (SG) in captivity? Based on current trends in veterinary medicine, exotic pet veterinarians nowadays are leaning toward the ratio of 75:25.
Seventy-five percent of a SG's diet should be composed of commercial glider pellets, while the remaining twenty-five percent should be composed of fresh food such as vegetables and fruits and live/frozen treats such as mealworms and insects.
This ratio may cause some confusion since many pet owners state on online message boards that fresh, live, or frozen food should comprise as much as fifty percent of a sugar glider's diet.
Whatever hype you hear or read about fresh food, don't fall into the trap of buying expensive exotic pet food just because people are saying it's the best for sugar gliders.
As we mentioned earlier, a balanced diet can be given to pet sugar bears for $10 to $15 a month only. Remember: sugar gliders only weigh a few ounces at adulthood, and they do not need to eat so much food in captivity.
Many people ask me if variety is good for Honey gliders. Well, variety can add a little excitement at meal time, but as for the health benefits, variety doesn't really add any palpable value to an existing diet.
Many SG diets being espoused on the Internet over-emphasize the need for variety. It may sound good when you read it online, but think about it: what does variety really entail when it is applied to honey glider nutrition?
Every diet has a staple component. In the case of glider-bears in captivity, the most common staple component is commercial glider pellets. To create variety in a glider's diet, exotic pet owners resort to fresh/live/frozen food and the amount of pellets is reduced. Why am I emphasizing glider pellets?
Here's a fact: glider pellets have been in development for decades and many reputable manufacturers have been able to create a balanced mix for sugar bears.
This means that once a glider feeds on commercial pellets, it is already getting its adequate share of protein, sugars, fiber, and fat. If you reduce the amount of pellets in a sugar glider's diet and replace it with treats like mealworms, in the long term, the animal may suffer from malnutrition because it is getting a smaller portion of the pellets.
Many exotic pet owners treat their SG's like little royalties: different bowls of food are laid out in the sugar glider's cage to create variety.
If sugar gliders understood what was going on, the animals would feed on the pellets more and would pay less attention to food bowls filled with mealworms and other treats. Unfortunately, pets don't know any better. If your glider-bear sees treats, like a child, the glider will focus on eating the treats only and may ignore the staple food.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Gliders as Pets
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Ideal-Food-Ratio&id=6621890] The Ideal Food Ratio

Vitamin and Mineral Supplementation for Sugar Gliders

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Gavin_Mathews]Gavin Mathews
Of course, sugar gliders (SG's) won't be able to go out and supplement their diets with vitamins and minerals, since these animals are kept as pets. So as pet owners, we have to provide additional vitamins and minerals. This can be accomplished by giving your sugar gliders supplements.
A peculiar thing about suggies is that these animals have to maintain balanced levels of the following trace
nutrients:
- Calcium
- Phosphorous
- Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3)
Unlike humans and other larger mammals, sugar bears are unable to tolerate prolonged periods of nutrient imbalance and deficiency.
This being the case, calcium-based supplementation must be given in proper amounts to both young and adult sugar gliders to keep their nutrient ratio at an optimum level.
If not, a SG can suffer severe nerve-related problems and may even suffer from bone problems. Once these problems set in, reversing the health conditions is very difficult. If nothing is done, the sugar glider will die.
There are hundreds of multivitamin supplements in the market today, and some are advertised as being fit for multiple species of animals. Avoid these brands at all cost. There is no such thing as a universal vitamin and mineral ratio that can be used for multiple species.
Each species requires a unique ratio of vitamins, minerals, and macronutrients.
A supplement for cats would be a horrible substitute for supplements meant to be given to dogs. Conversely, you cannot give supplements that were meant for cats or dogs to glider-bears. Doing so may cause more problems in the long-term.
How do you introduce vitamin and mineral supplementation? It's really very easy. Remember the ratio that we talked about earlier?
Use this food ratio to your advantage. Fresh fruits and vegetables are not banned from the sugar glider's diet. I am simply emphasizing that you must strictly control the portions to avoid over-feeding your suggie.
A calcium-based supplement can be given to your honey glider at night just before your retire to bed. Get a few pieces of fresh vegetable (no need to dice or mince) and just sprinkle the calcium-based supplement over the fresh veggies.
Giving fruits or vegetables whole preserves the moisture, which is good for glider-bears in general. Just make sure that you clean the cage in the morning. Remove any left-overs immediately to avoid infection and disease.
Another treat that you can safely give your suggie is whole wheat bread. A small piece suffices - just place the bread inside your glider's cage at night, just before heading to bed.
Be sure to add some calcium-based supplement on top of the bread before placing it in the honey glider's cage. Do not give your sugar bear bread every day. Remember, the whole wheat bread is a treat, not the glider's staple diet.
My name is Gavin Mathews, I am a pet lover and exotic pet enthuses me to go the extra mile. As a sugar glider enthusiast I would like to share some of the knowledge I have gained in the due course.
For more information click [http://www.sugargliderinfoshop.com/how-are-sugar-gliders-as-pets/]Sugar Glider As A Pet
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Vitamin-and-Mineral-Supplementation-for-Sugar-Gliders&id=6624097] Vitamin and Mineral Supplementation for Sugar Gliders

A Crabby Situation

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Matthew_A_Sanders]Matthew A Sanders
Hermit crabs are very appealing, but what do you know about them? Anything? Well actually the majority of people do not know much about these shy companions, but they are quite a bit of fun to own. Just remember that they're not traditional pets; they are more similar to a python or tarantula.
That doesn't mean they are LIKE the latter two, and it doesn't mean that they are bad pets. It just means that they are a little bit different. We'll discuss your hermit crab information, and soon enough you will see how much fun these are to own!
Prior to getting any pet though, you're going to want to learn about it. Though the learning process might take quite a bit of time, you are going to be glad that you took that time. I will do my best to help you learn by using both technical terms and understandable terms. This will be the beginning of the information you will need to determine whether or not you are suited to owning one.
When you think of a hermit crab, you are more than likely thinking about the standard terrestrial hermit crab which is based on land. You will probably see this type quite often at different pet stores.
The hermit crab is quite different from other animals. Most land based animals start out on land, but the hermit crab starts out in the water and then makes its way to land. It does need to go back to the water occasionally, but it can stay out of it for several months.
Is it hard to take care of a hermit crab?
You might be surprised to find out that it's quite easy to take care of this pet. That is actually a good thing because you'll definitely need more than one.
One thing that needs to be cleared up is the type of animal this is. Yes, it is called a hermit crab, but it is far from being an antisocial creature. You will actually find that it likes to interact with its owner as well as other crabs that you might introduce into its environment. You can put as many of them as you would like into the environment. As a matter of fact, the more the merrier!
Know that these pets are a bit of an investment, but they are worth buying, especially in number. Not only will they be happier, they will also be much more interesting if allowed to interact.
If you do this, then be rest assured that you are not the only one that does this. In fact many other owners these pets will buy them 'by the dozen'.
Matthew A Sanders is a Researcher and Author. You can find more information on Hermit Crabs on his site at http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com/hermit-crabs-information and you can receive his free eCourse by registering your interest at [http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com]http://www.hermitcrabscareguide.com.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Crabby-Situation&id=6615861] A Crabby Situation

How to Groom Your Chinchilla

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Jack_Sterling]Jack Sterling
Just like several other rodents, your chinchilla has to clean its fur occasionally.
A chinchilla without means to thoroughly clean itself could get stress and also other health-related issues. To completely clean your chinchilla, you must have a bowl or another container as well as dusting powder. The rodent will roll around inside the dust bath until it feels nice and clean. The special dust will help emit dirt and oils from the chinchilla's coat, making its fur look and feel vibrant rather than oily.
A number of chinchillas can be allergic to the dust. You may notice that your fuzzy companion is trying to wipe its nose against something, or see that its eyes are watering, it might very well be caused by allergies. You could help it out by means of cleaning its nose by using a piece of cloth or some toilet tissue. It would be best if you seek assistance from a veterinarian, as it could indicate that there's something wrong with your chinchilla's respiratory system.
Dust Bath
As to how frequently you ought to wash your chinchilla, once every seven days is normally enough, but there's certainly no harm in carrying it out every other day; nearly all chinchillas love to roll around in the dust. If you reside in a place with higher than average temperatures throughout the summer, washing your chinchilla every second day is what you'll want to aim for. The dust will make sure the chinchilla's coat continues to be free of grease, which in turn helps prevent it from overheating.
There are more methods to stop your chinchilla from having an unhealthy coat. Smoking tobacco around the animal is definitely a bad idea, because the tar residue from the cigarette will get caught in their fur. The chinchilla makes use of its tongue to wash itself, so you can probably imagine where that tar eventually ends up. It might be important to give your chinchilla a good bath, with water and not dust, should you wish to get the tar out of its fur.
In the event your chinchilla decides to not make use of the dust bath, you can try and massage the furry critter instead. It helps the animal feel cleaner and it'll hopefully begin using the dust bath frequently. In the event your chinchilla stays still in the dust bath, or perhaps starts whimpering whenever you put it down, it might be resulting from an injury. Get the animal looked at if that's the case.
Make sure you bathe the animal somewhere out of the way where the dust won't cover the whole household, or perhaps put a large bath towel or blanket below the bowl to capture the dust.
You can get the specified equipment and dust for dust baths in your local pet store as well as on Amazon.
You can find more   chinchilla facts and other interesting articles at http://www.allchinchillafacts.com/
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What Does A Chinchilla Eat? - Feeding Your Pet Nutritious Food For A Long And Healthy Life

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
You'll need a good understanding of what your chinchilla's digestive system can and cannot handle in order to keep your new pet chinchilla healthy, happy and full of energy. You might be surprised to learn that chinchillas have sensitive digestive systems and are unable to digest certain things properly. Making sure that your chinchilla eats a diet that's appropriate for its digestive system is essential. So, what does a chinchilla eat? Keep reading and you will find out the answer to this very important question.
What Wild Chinchillas Eat
Wild chinchillas typically eat mostly vegetation that includes a lot of roughage. The digestive system of a chinchilla is simply not designed to handle rich or fatty foods. You'll need to feed your pet special chinchilla pellets, but you'll want to supplement that diet with plenty of fresh grass hay in order to help him live a long life.
Changing Your Chinchilla's Diet
If you need to change your chinchilla's food, make sure you do it gradually, so that your pet doesn't notice and its digestive system doesn't react adversely.
A number of professional chinchilla breeders use the following "secret" when they change their chinchilla's food: Begin changing the food by mixing a tiny amount of the new food into the old. The amount of new food might be so small that your pet won't even realize he's eating anything different. Then, each time you feed your chinchilla, introduce a slightly larger amount of new food into the food your chinchilla is used to eating, reducing the amount of old food by the same amount. The process will be gradual, but don't worry about how long it takes. Eventually you'll have completely changed your chinchilla's food. And even more importantly, you'll have changed your chinchilla's food without causing your pet any digestive problems.
Treats
Many pets love treats, and chinchillas aren't any different. But just because your chinchilla loves eating treats doesn't mean it should have as many treats as it wants. Although it's fine to give your chinchilla treats, don't give it so many that they basically become part of your chinchilla's food.
Pellets And Loose Food
You can feed your chinchilla either pellets or loose food. Although the loose food is nutritionally balanced, feeding pellets to your chinchilla is an easy way to make sure its diet is perfectly balanced. Mixing loose food into your chinchilla's food is fine, but only for supplementing its diet. If your chinchilla only eats loose food, it won't be receiving a nutritionally complete diet. Chinchillas typically eat one to two tablespoons of pellets every day.
Hay
Although pellets will give your chinchilla all the nutrients it needs, they do not provide the fiber that is required for your pet to stay healthy. That's where a constant supply of hay comes into play. Chinchillas love hay, but they also need it for their digestive systems, so make sure your pet always has fresh hay available. Ideally, a chinchilla should eat a handful of hay every day.
Water
You also need to make sure that your chinchilla always has fresh, room temperature drinking water available. Cold water could upset his digestive system.
These are the basics you need to know about a chinchilla's food. You might want to do some additional research to understand why some types of hay are not good for chinchillas and why some pellets don't provide all the nutrition they promise.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/how-to-care-for-chinchilla]what chinchillas can eat? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Does-A-Chinchilla-Eat?---Feeding-Your-Pet-Nutritious-Food-For-A-Long-And-Healthy-Life&id=6626274] What Does A Chinchilla Eat? - Feeding Your Pet Nutritious Food For A Long And Healthy Life

Cages For Chinchilla Pets - Choosing A Safe, Practical Cage That Permits Easy And Fast Cleaning

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
When you're trying to decide which type of cage might be best for your new chinchilla, keep in mind that chinchillas love climbing and jumping onto things. They also love running and playing inside their cages. So, it's better to choose a cage that's taller than it is wide. You should also remember that because chinchillas are larger than hamsters or guinea pigs, they need bigger cages than those pets.
Cages for chinchilla pets should always be made of wire to prevent them from chewing their way out. Because your chinchilla might gnaw on the wire, make sure that it is not painted or coated with any substance. The wires should not be spaced more than one to two inches apart, but no more than one-half inch apart on the bottom of the cage. The smaller gaps on the bottom of the cage can help prevent leg injuries as your chinchilla walks or runs in its cage.
The best cages for chinchilla pets have a pullout tray to permit easy cleaning. If yours has a solid floor, you can put wood shavings or newspaper on the bottom. Pullout trays should be cleaned at least weekly, but solid floors will require it more frequently. Disinfect the entire cage thoroughly at least once a month. Fortunately, chinchillas typically pick a particular area of the cage for urinating. This habit lets you place extra bedding there to help absorb the urine. You could even sprinkle some baking soda there to help absorb the urine's odor.
Cages for chinchilla pets must be kept in the right location. For example, the temperature in the area should be kept between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. You'll need to monitor the temperature to make sure it stays within that range. Although you'll need to avoid placing the cage in a spot that's too drafty, the area should be well-ventilated, especially during the hot summer months. Your chinchilla can tolerate temperatures as high as 83 degrees Fahrenheit, but needs to stay out of direct sunlight. The temperature should never go higher than 86 degrees. Directing a fan in the direction of your chinchilla won't help it cool off because chinchillas don't sweat - the fan will only make the hot air go in circles. One strategy for cooling off an overheated chinchilla consists of using a covered pan containing ice cubes inside the cage. Your pet can then curl up against it to get cooler. You do, however, need to make sure that your pet will not be able to fall into the pan of ice cubes.
Every chinchilla requires exercise. A large cage will let it move around and climb. You should also put an exercise wheel inside. In addition, give your pet some time outside the cage to stretch its legs. An hour of supervised play in a room that�s chinchilla-proved will help keep your pet happy. Remove any chemicals and poisonous plants that could make your chinchilla ill, and make sure there aren't any exposed electrical wires it could gnaw, because chinchillas are rodents and they love chewing on things. You'll also want to keep an eye on your chinchilla while it's playing to make sure it doesn't chew on the corners of your furniture. This supervised playtime provides the perfect opportunity to play with your new chinchilla pet and have some fun watching its antics.
Want to learn more about [http://www.chinchillascare.com/chinchilla-accommodation]cages for chinchilla pets? Visit my website at http://www.chinchillascare.com/ for helpful tips and information on buying and caring for chinchillas.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Cages-For-Chinchilla-Pets---Choosing-A-Safe,-Practical-Cage-That-Permits-Easy-And-Fast-Cleaning&id=6629137] Cages For Chinchilla Pets - Choosing A Safe, Practical Cage That Permits Easy And Fast Cleaning

How to Choose the Best Rat Cage

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Derrick_R_Anderson]Derrick R Anderson
The more traditional type of rat cages available in a pet store are constructed from sheet metal. There are various designs. Before buying a cage, look carefully for any signs of rough edges that could injure your pet quite seriously. Also consider ease of access and the strength of the door fastening. Clearly, you will need to be able to clean the cage out thoroughly with minimum disturbance. A sliding tray may be useful, but ensure that sunflower or other large seeds will not block its movement. Do not be surprised if a plastic tray gets gnawed.
The size of cage you need will depend to some extent on the number of rats you wish to keep together, but generally always choose as large a cage as possible. The more expensive cages tend to be the most suitable and are perhaps less likely to rust prematurely.
The spacing of the bars is important for your pet's welfare. It should be less than 1.25cm (0.5in), otherwise the rodents may rub their snouts between the bars, causing hair loss and possible injury. In an emergency, however, a bird cage can be used to provide separate accommodation if no other suitable housing is available.
As there will be times when you will need to wash and clean the rats' quarters completely, cages with a heavy duty plastic base and a detachable wire top, similar in many ways to modern bird cages, have become increasingly popular. Accommodation of this type is used for laboratory rats, where ease of maintenance is viewed as a vital design consideration. Laboratory cages can also be used to house domestic pets, but the majority of suppliers are not keen to sell individual units to members of the general public.
The most recent development in rat housing is an ingenious interconnecting plastic tubular system suitable for the smaller species. It is available in a range of colors and the units can be joined together to create housing of various shapes and sizes. Although eye-catching and versatile, this system is not without its disadvantages. While young rats can move through the tubes without difficulty, older, more obese animals may encounter problems, and could even get stuck. These units are relatively costly, and you will probably need to buy a second unit, as the basic kit usually provides only a small area. Cleaning, too, can prove troublesome. On the whole, however, these units do offer an attractive, inventive, yet natural setting for burrowing rats.
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Names For Chinchilla Pets - How To Choose The Perfect Name For Your New Exotic Pet

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
Naming a new pet can be a fun, easy thing to do for some people. For others, however, it can be challenging or even overwhelming. How do you go about picking a name for a new chinchilla? Keep reading and you will find lots of suitable names for chinchilla pets in this article.
Some people choose their chinchilla names before they even bring them home. Other people wait a while before deciding on their new pets' names, so they can see what their personalities are like and choose names that would suit them well. There are a large number of creative names that fit these furry little critters very well.
Some chinchilla owners name their pets based on their appearance. For example, Sugar, Salt, or Pepper can indicate the color of a chinchilla's fur. Other names that are based on appearance include Fluffy or Speckles, for example. If you own a chubby chinchilla, you might consider naming him Hefty. Or, if your chinchilla is small and thin, Wimpy might be a good name. Sonar is another popular appearance-based name because these little guys have such great big ears.
Other chinchilla owners prefer to use names that are based on their behavior. For example, chinchillas can be physically very active, jumping and climbing all over their living space. In the wild, chinchillas live in the mountains, climbing rock faces and escaping their predators by jumping into mountain crevasses. Some examples of creative names for active pets include Spunky, Feisty or Skippy. For calmer, more laid-back chinchillas that prefer sleeping over running all over the room, a name like Sleepy or Drowsy might be ideal.
Chinchillas tend to be set in their ways, so if the chinchilla you buy is active it will probably continue to be active for as long as you own it. Likewise, if you buy a chinchilla that is shy, it might always stay that way. It will take a great deal of work for you to help a shy chinchilla overcome its reluctance and become comfortable being handled. Bashful might be a good choice as a name for a shy chinchilla.
Still other chinchilla owners name their pets for where they originally come from. Andy, referring to these animals' origins in the Andes Mountains, has become one of the more popular chinchilla names.
Finding a name that suits your chinchilla is a fun thing to do. In addition to the types of chinchilla names mentioned above, you might also consider naming your chinchilla for something you like. For example, you could name your chinchilla after your favorite rock band or TV actor. Favorite cartoon characters also make creative chinchilla names. The list of possibilities for good, creative chinchilla names is almost infinite. There are no specific chinchilla names that owners almost universally select. Instead, the emphasis is on finding a name that works for the individual chinchilla and its owner. Names are important, but chinchillas have so much built-in personality that you could almost name them anything. Although a chinchilla won't respond to its name if it's called, naming them creatively makes their owners feel like their furry pets are important family members.
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The Cost Of Chinchilla Ownership Includes Many Types Of Costs - Read This Article To Find Out More

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
Even before you start choosing the chinchilla of your dreams, you may want to give some thought to the cost of chinchilla ownership. While this cost includes the initial purchase of your new pet, it also extends to the expenses involved in keeping him happy and healthy for a lifetime.
The Initial Cost of Chinchilla Types
First, the initial cost of adopting a chinchilla is not inexpensive. Depending on the type of chinchilla you choose, you'll looking at an animal that has a value between $125 to $200 and even more. Much of this variation in price depends on the color of your new pet. The least expensive chinchillas are beige or light ebony. As the animal's coat becomes a darker, deeper color, you'll find yourself paying more.
Now that you have a rough idea of what the initial cost of chinchilla types are, you'll want to investigate everything else that goes into the ownership of these loveable South American natives.
All The Equipment Your Pet Needs
Let's start with a listing of all the equipment you'll need for your new pet. If he's going to be your family's "only chinchilla" then you need to purchase a cage that's large enough for your friend. This cage, additionally, needs to be equipped with an exercise wheel, as well as a water bottle, feeder and a hay rack. But if you�re going to adopt a pair of chinchillas, then you need to have a cage that�s big enough for two of these pets.
But that's not all your new friend needs though. He'll want to have a nesting hut. And of course, don't forget factoring in the cost of chinchilla maintenance, the expense of his food pellets and his hay.
You'll also want to make sure he has an ample supply of chinchilla dust. If you're not familiar with how chinchillas keep themselves clean, you may be surprised to learn that they roll around in chinchilla dust. And of course, where there's chinchilla dust you'll need a dust bath tub to hold it.
Now this equipment is just for the time he spends at home. Planning on taking him anywhere? If no place else, you'll end up at least transporting him to the veterinarian. (And then don't forget to add in the cost of vet visits.) That means you'll need to buy him a carrier. Before you actually purchase your chinchilla, check into the cost of these accessories. You don't need to perform a serious investigation. You can easily just browse the pet store the next time you're in there to get a feel for the cost.
Showing Your Pet
You'll also discover, if you have any inkling at all of showing your pet, that there are inherent costs involved in that as well. You'll want to be sure to investigate what these costs include and factor them in.
Now factor in all of this cost of chinchilla ownership and multiply by approximately 20. That's for the number of years your friend lives if you take good care of him.
The cost of chinchilla ownership and maintenance is more expensive than you may think when you first consider owning one of these small, delicate pets. If you can afford this, that's great. The rewards of chinchilla ownership are well worth every penny of the cost.
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Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Cost-Of-Chinchilla-Ownership-Includes-Many-Types-Of-Costs---Read-This-Article-To-Find-Out-More&id=6633270] The Cost Of Chinchilla Ownership Includes Many Types Of Costs - Read This Article To Find Out More

Black Chinchillas - Facts About Their Colors And What Sets Them Apart From Other Chinchilla Types

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
Talk to enough chinchilla owners and you'll eventually discover that black chinchillas are a proverbial favorite of many of them. Why? One look at them and you'll discover the answer. These animals are deep black and have black ears. Even their eyes are dark and beautifully colored. It's no wonder these chinchilla types are among the most cherished with owners.
These are native to the harsh and dried-out parts of the Andes Mountains in Chile. Chinchillas, for the most part, live in heights of 700 and 1100 meters in communities they've developed in the rocky crevices of these mountains.
These chinchillas, when they can be found in their native land, spend much of their time trying to find food, especially in the dawn and in the evening. Their favorite foods include fruits, herbs, seeds, moss and a variety of wild grains.
Now you may think that all black chinchillas look the same. But that just doesn't happen to be the case. Let's look briefly at the Ebony variety. While this little animal is indeed black, his colors can also range from grey to a solid black. For the most part, their bellies are grey, but you'll discover some with black underneaths that are perfect matches to their black fur.
Another variety is known as black velvet. This chinchilla is black on top and his fur turns a lighter color as it wraps around his sides. They have white bellies and overall the hue of their fur is a blue.
Caring For Black Chinchillas
What do these beautiful animals eat? Their diet consists of many things. They especially like raisins, dates and nuts -- any type of nuts. And of course, they like the standard chinchilla pellets as well.
When designing your own chinchilla diet, you'll want to ensure your friend gets 25 percent of his diet from protein, as well as hay and alfalfa. You'll also want to ensure your pet gets an adequate amount of vitamins A, E and D. You'll want to keep his beautiful fur healthy and shiny!
The history of the black chinchillas is pretty remarkable. They were first discovered by Westerners in the sixteenth century by Spanish explorers. Right away these westerners saw the innate value in the fur of these beautiful animals. They noticed that the native population were already using the fur of the black chinchillas for warmth.
So the Europeans began to trap them and take them to Madrid, where the pelts became popular as coats. In fact, the pelts became too popular, and at one point it looked as if the animal might end up extinct. If you could imagine how small these animals are, you wouldn't be surprised. It takes more than 100 pelts to create just one medium-sized chinchilla coat.
Some Westerners then tried to domesticate them. However, there were far too many factors involved in the process and it inevitably failed. However, one individual did eventually transport them from South America to California, creating the first chinchilla farm. And that made a remarkable difference in the health of the population.
No matter what types of black chinchillas you own or just admire, you're sure to appreciate and love them once you get to know them. How could you not?
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Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Black-Chinchillas---Facts-About-Their-Colors-And-What-Sets-Them-Apart-From-Other-Chinchilla-Types&id=6636215] Black Chinchillas - Facts About Their Colors And What Sets Them Apart From Other Chinchilla Types

Chinchilla's Lifespan - What You Can Do To Help Your Pet Live A Long And Happy Life Free From Stress

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chris_Arkell]Chris Arkell
If you've decided to adopt a new chinchilla, there's an important fact you should know before you actually go ahead. A chinchilla's lifespan is pretty long, so you'll need to be ready to have a chinchilla in your home for many years to come. In fact, if you adopt a baby chinchilla, it will probably be living with you for around 20 years. But, in order for your new pet to have that sort of lifespan, you'll need to keep it healthy and give it high quality food.
If you want your chinchilla to have a long and happy life, you'll need to take care of its health, just like you would with any other pet. Your chinchilla's health will depend on how you handle things, but don't let that make you nervous because caring for a chinchilla is quite easy.
But how do you go about helping your chinchilla lead a long life? Making sure your chinchilla eats a wholesome, nutritious diet is probably the most important thing you can do. Your chinchilla's food should consist of chinchilla pellets and hay. Although loose chinchilla food works well as a supplement to pellets and hay, it should never replace the pellets completely. Your chinchilla needs fiber in its diet, and that's the role of high quality hay, because it's very high in fiber. Chinchilla pellets simply don't give your pet any fiber, so it needs to eat some high quality hay every day. You can purchase quality hay at most local pet stores. Timothy grass hay is the most common type of hay that people feed to chinchillas. If you can't find any timothy hay, you can use alfalfa instead, if your chinchilla is willing to eat it. You should be wary of feeding your chinchilla other types of hay, and you should avoid giving it any hay that is dusty, stale or moldy, because that might create some health problems, including respiratory issues if the hay is dusty. Watch for any "unwanted" plants that are bundled into the hay. Thistle and some potentially poisonous plants could harm your chinchilla if you don't remove them.
In order to have a long lifespan, your chinchilla's life must be free of stress. We've all heard how stress can shorten our life and lead to all types of health conditions. The same thing can happen if your chinchilla has to deal with too much stress. When you first bring home a new chinchilla, you might have a hard time interacting with it. Your chinchilla will be going through an adjustment period and will probably need some time to get used to you and its new living situation before it comes to trust you. Until you've gained your chinchilla's trust, life can be stressful for your new pet. Eventually it will be okay, though, and then you'll be able to pick up and hold your new chinchilla.
One thing that makes chinchillas such great pets is the way they don't often need the attentions of a vet. In fact, chinchillas don't even need vaccinations. No pet can come close to a chinchilla when it comes down to vet care. Your pet might have a few problems during the crucial adjustment period, however, and those problems are usually related to stress in some way. The stress your chinchilla feels while it's trying to understand what's happening during the adjustment period can actually weaken its immune system. You can make this adjustment easier and reduce your chinchilla's stress levels by making sure it's been fully weaned from its mother and can feed itself before you bring it home.
If your chinchilla is healthy it has a great chance of having a lengthy lifespan. And, it's actually pretty easy to keep a chinchilla healthy.
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Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Chinchillas-Lifespan---What-You-Can-Do-To-Help-Your-Pet-Live-A-Long-And-Happy-Life-Free-From-Stress&id=6630599] Chinchilla's Lifespan - What You Can Do To Help Your Pet Live A Long And Happy Life Free From Stress